A crazy concept?
Breakfast for dinner is commonplace here in the States. Popularized by 24-hour giants such as Shari’s and IHOP, and stretched to gourmet by trendsetters like Gravy in Portland, my guess is just about all of us have enjoyed eggs or pancakes way past noon.
But dinner for breakfast seemed a backward concept.
In the south, however, dinner-worthy meals in the morning are customary. In the sweltering heat of a humid Southern summer, it makes much more sense to stand behind a hot stove or smoking grill in the cooler morning hours. And, being the birthplace of barbeque, it’s no wonder that southerners regularly enjoy pulled pork, smoked brisket and even ribs as the first meal of the day.
Baldy’s new eastside location is now open for breakfast at 6 a.m., and ribs are on the menu.
Makes Sense To Me
According to the late author and nutritionist Adelle Davis, we should “eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince, and dinner like a pauper." Eating our biggest meal for breakfast gets our metabolism going and means we are less likely to overeat throughout the day.
I took this message to heart and headed straight to Baldy’s, at 9 a.m. I proceeded to shamelessly indulge in a half rack of ribs, two eggs over medium, hashbrowns and an english muffin. I needed to get my metabolism going, didn’t I?
Bigger And Better But Still Baldy’s
Replacing the failed Yoko’s sushi restaurant in the Forum Shopping Center on Highway 20, the new Baldy’s is larger and more appealing than their original westside “shack.”
And despite artifacts like wagon wheels and other country notions, the newly remodeled spot feels much more modern. Stained posts support the arched woodwork of the ceiling, and freshly upholstered half-booths line the perimeter. At the center is an adults-only area with several small tables and—the best part—a full service bar.
With breakfast bloody’s, happy hour hydration and hair-of the dog hangover cures now a built-in bonus, the new eastside Baldy’s is even better than the original.
Grand Opening Menu
The smoked ribs fell right off the bone. Egg yolks oozed from the firm whites, spilling into pools swirled with the sweet and tangy BBQ sauce. I used my English muffin as a sponge, so as not to leave a single smear. The slurping of sauce from my fingers was the only sound audible besides the music in the background.
“It’s quiet,” I said to my server.
“Yeah, people haven’t really put ‘Baldy’s’ and ‘breakfast' together yet,” she said.
On a previous visit, I customized a veggie omelette and took it to go. Despite the 20 minutes between pick-up time and first bite, I was pleased to find the giant omelette still hot and fluffy and, surprisingly, not greasy with pan-spray. My only regret is not ordering the beef brisket, pulled pork or smoked chicken, which I could’ve tucked inside.
Next time, I’ll try the breakfast skillet or the huevos rancheros, which come smothered in a pork chili verde sauce.
For a limited time, the entire breakfast menu is just $6.50. Classic offerings like French toast and biscuits and gravy are available, but it’s the specialties like ribs and eggs, brisket and pulled pork that makes Baldy’s breakfasts unique.
So go ahead, succumb to the advice of health advocates everywhere: Eat your biggest meal of the day in the morning.
BBQ for breakfast ain’t bad.
Photos taken by Laura Kissinger.
2670 NE Hwy 20, Ste 720
Open 7 days a week from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.