Pin It

Urban Cool: Volo busts onto the high-end dining scene 

Piling it High at Volo.Ah, downtown Bend, the heart of Central Oregon. Its quaint small town look mixes with urban sidewalk urban appeal;. There are

click to enlarge Piling it High at Volo.
  • Piling it High at Volo.
Piling it High at Volo.Ah, downtown Bend, the heart of Central Oregon. Its quaint small town look mixes with urban sidewalk urban appeal;. There are even "lofts" (note: not apartments) to promote downtown luxury living, which is a far cry from the days in which the only folks who lived downtown were those who needed to be in walking distance of the nearest bar.

Volo is the new and hip thing (albeit lesser known) and its opening carried almost as much hype as the opening of Deep. Dressed in black, grey and white the interior of Volo is a combo of modern and '80s retro, recalling a time when stark color contrasts were a la mode.

The room is artfully carved into three sections by grand metal sculptures. The bar, which has the most jubilant atmosphere of the restaurant, is staffed with ridiculously good-looking people attentively serving house drinks like the Purple Haze, Glacier Ice Cosmo and Roses are Red to well-heeled clientele soaking up the see-and-be-seen ambiance.

The din subsides in the dining rooms where the middle section borrows the bar's festive atmosphere and the far room is creatively padded and carpeted to absorb the loudest of the revelries. The food, in owner Chris Jones' words, is described as "urban cool," and ranges from Italian inspired items like the Fava Bean Agnolotti and the Potato Gnocchi, to items more familiar to the Pacific Northwest such as Pan Roasted King Salmon and the Grilled Flat Iron steak.

The dining room service is friendly, attentive and attractive. There are runners, bussers, waiters and a very knowledgeable and creative sommelier who will come up with pairings guaranteed to astonish and delight. To our surprise, our server admitted to not having tried the item we were asking about. In a restaurant of Volo's level, this needs to be remedied.

To start, the Chilled Spring Pea Soup will complement any meal with its bevy of textures and a wonderful blending of the sweetness of peas and prawns with the tartness of preserved lemons. The Pan Roasted Sweet Breads were heaven on a plate, delicately accented with pickled rhubarb, crisp bacon, tender spaetzle and a cool basil coulis.

For his entrée, one of my dining partners got the Oregonzola Crusted Filet and announced that it was the best steak he's had in Central Oregon. The graceful presentation of a light, aerated crust of Rouge Creamery's Gorgonzola cheese atop the thick medium rare, fork-tender filet mignon was definitely one of many highlights of the meal. The Pan Roasted Free Range Chicken Breast is absolutely deliciously served on herbed bread, it conjures the much-loved tastes of Thanksgiving. The Diver Scallops are perfectly unctuous and rich, and served on a creamy caramelized fennel risotto with a tomato compote and topped with a pungent saffron emulsion.

From the super slick, Flash-infused website to the beautifully presented food, Volo is a dining experience comparable to those big city spots at which it takes six months to get a reservation.

919 Bond St., 749-2460, Mon-Sat 5pm-close


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Latest in Restaurant Reviews

More by Intern

  • The Other Half of the Yoga Equation

    The Source Issue 45 (Nov. 10) contained wonderful information about the forms of yoga offered in our vicinity. Most of the information covered pertained to the socially enjoyable forms of yoga enjoyed by the folks who use yoga mats and bendy posturing as they concentrate on improving their blissful breathing techniques. These physical forms of yoga are the beautiful compliments to the mental, mindful and meditative forms of yoga that balance the larger yoga (yogic) equation. Yoga is basically a non-denominational practice aimed at balancing the physical (body) existence with the meta-physical (mind) reality. The ensuing mind-body balance creates the union required for an increased "understanding" (consciousness) of the "living experience."
    • Jan 25, 2012
  • Walden's Corporate Servitude

    In the time-honored American tradition of peaceful civil disobedience, I am proud to be one of eight Central Oregon citizens arrested on December 5 in Congressman Greg Walden's Bend office. At our January 26 trial we plan to present a compelling defense. This act of dissent follows years of futile attempts to encourage the Congressman to hold open, unscripted town meetings accessible to a majority of his constituents. The Congressman has grown so suspicious of impromptu encounters with ordinary citizens that on Saturday he required a Bend Police Department intervention that enabled him to enter the Water Project meeting at the Chamber of Commerce through the back door. (Greg, we are nonviolent people who believe that democracy thrives on open dialogue and transparency; there is no reason to avoid us.)
    • Jan 25, 2012
  • Doors of Equality Swing Both Ways

    I had to respond to "What's Wrong with Siri," (News, 1-4) since Apple's Siri isn't the problem. Three hours before I read, "What's wrong with Siri," I went to a store in town and complimented the cashier that this was the nicest "dollar" store I had ever been in.
    • Jan 11, 2012
  • More »

Readers also liked…

© 2016 LAY IT OUT INC | 704 NW GEORGIA, BEND, OREGON 97703  |   Privacy Policy

Website powered by Foundation