Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Slings of Crap

Not one to mince words, Reynvaan delves into her locker of inspiration.

Posted By on Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 5:47 PM

Unique by experience or pursuit, the drive we gain from what we do and why we do it will continue to challenge us, mold us, and define who we are. There’s a line that gets swaggered by many as they choose to only dabble in what they love. Then there are those who willingly let a personal drive within, guide what they do, and who they become. I distinctly remember walking out of Smith Rock state park two years ago and knowing that my life would never be the same – I found something I truly loved. The earth shifted just slightly and over the line I went, crashing violently into an obsession that I now proudly call my passion. We all fall over the line for different reasons, it’s more what motivates and inspires us to keep going that is the most noteworthy.


Almost Two Years ago on my first project - Vomit Launch 5.11b
Photo: Matthew Battarbee


Although three months off climbing seemed like the world ended just slightly, it enabled me to gain the new perspective I desperately needed. Coming back to Smith and picking my first hard project in almost a year was super exciting. I was inspired to find what is likely one of the best rigs in the park - Kings of Rap 5.12d. Ironically, it just happen to be right around the corner from Churning – my little tendon muncher. Kings climbs through powerful pockets onto a spectacular head wall with great, varied movement. From the first attempts of engaging my belayers in the most volatile whippers imaginable on this thing, to finally sending, I can breath in and know why I do this. I lower down and I simply want to get back on it – I can’t believe it’s over. I love what I do and I'm so thankful that my body (for now) allows me to do it. 


Entering the Redpoint crux on the near perfect headwall. Photo: Ryan Palo

What drives you? What shouldn’t? Is it all just an emotional reaction to your ego as you swagger the line, never really allowing yourself to let go and do it for yourself. For women in our sport in particular, something seems like it needs to change.


Boom! This route is serious off the ground! Photo: Ryan Palo

There’s no one standing outside your apartment with a stopwatch reminding you that being 5 minutes late to work is a side effect of being a woman. There will never be anyone at the crag that will remind you as you whip into the air punting off your project, that you probably fell because you have a vagina. I look at women who inspire me, and they’re the ones who climb because it’s what they love. Not because they are trying to spray some type of astro-turfed, misguided feminism that really just sounds like a left over Thanksgiving dinner of Nineties book clubs.



Paige Claassen on Kings of Rap. Photo: Andy Mann

Are you short/ tall, or negative/positive ape? Only then will your beta likely vary from the later. Never have I found that because I’m a woman, do I need to indicate that I deserve special attention for beta, climbing, or ascents. What do you think FFA means to most people? Watching a woman like local smith hard woman Kristin Yurdin crush 5.14 or Paige Claassen go on an onsight rampage can really make you eat your acronyms. Climb because you love it. If you’re a woman and you want to write about climbing, write something worth inspiring. These neo-feminist climbing blogs and vagina glory-ascent highlight-reels are degrading not only the women in our sport, but the sport itself.  Whether your goal is to do the hardest onsight, red point, or to fit into the XS Metolius harness, few things are unobtainable to those who really want it and who have the drive to push back.

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No Crypto, No Prob: Bend may get water system break

Posted By on Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 5:31 PM

Yesterday’s announcement that state of Oregon intends to allow Portland to sidestep federal drinking water guidelines could amount to big savings for Bend’s water system.

“We perceive it as good news,” City Manager Eric King said Wednesday morning.

King said the announcement could help Bend, which is currently working on its own multi-million dollar water system upgrade, buy some additional time to negotiate with the state and federal government over the necessity of a costly water treatment system, one of the major components of Bend’s ongoing $62 million Surface Water Improvement Project.

Like Portland, Bend gets a large percentage of its drinking water from a surface source, which according to federal guidelines puts it at risk of contamination. To date, neither Bend or Portland have encountered problems with their drinking water, however federal authorities are concerned about the possibility of cryptosporidium, a potentially fatal microscopic parasite. A 1993 crypto outbreak in Milwaukee sickened nearly half a million of the city’s residents and killed an estimated 104 people. Since then the EPA has tightened drinking water treatment rules.

Bend initially had until 2012 to upgrade its drinking system to include a treatment facility. (Presently, a few drops of chlorine serve as the treatment regime) The state Health Authority, which administers the drinking water rule, has already granted the city an extension until 2014.

King said it’s possible that the city could seek a variance similar to Portland, however, it’s a costly process that the city has yet to begin. There’s also no guarantee that the Bend would get a similar result due to differences in the two systems. (Bend officials have repeatedly pointed out that there is a much higher probability of wildfire in the local watershed than Portland’s Bull Run. A treatment plant would allow Bend to continue to use the resource in that event.)

King said the city has hired a lobbyist to work on the water treatment issue in Salem. That could help the city push the compliance deadline back several more years. In the meantime, the EPA is reviewing its drinking water mandate and could make substantive changes that would potentially nullify the need for the treatment facility. The city would like to see how that process plays out before it makes any major moves.

“We’d like to hit the pause button,” King said.

Even so, Bend intends to move forward with its larger Surface Water Improvement Project that will replace the aging pipeline from Bridge Creek to Bend along Skyliners Road. The project also includes a controversial $5 million hydroelectric generation facility that is designed to offset the cost of the overall upgrade. Critics worry that the city will be tempted to increase its water diversion from the Tumalo basin to maximize power production and profits. City officials say that is not the case and have rejected calls to scrap the entire project in favor of a groundwater-based system.



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Monday, November 28, 2011

OSP reports increase in holiday DUII arrests

Posted By on Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 7:14 PM

With the holiday's seasonal celebrations underway police are on the look out for any signs of intoxicated driving. They got off to a busy start this past weekend. Here's a rundown of stats from OSP:

Oregon State Police troopers reported an increase in the number of DUII arrests compared with the total arrested during last year's Thanksgiving holiday period. Troopers arrested 72 DUII drivers this year, an increase of 65 percent over last year's total of 47 arrests. Two years ago, troopers reported 53 DUII arrests.
Oregon State Police offices reported 3 or more DUII arrests were:
* Portland Area Command office - 9 DUII arrests
* Springfield Area Command office - 9 DUII arrests
* Astoria Area Command office - 8 DUII arrests
* Central Point Area Command office - 8 DUII arrests
* Albany Area Command office - 7 DUII arrests
* Bend Area Command office - 5 DUII arrests
* St. Helens work site - 4 DUII arrests
* Salem Area Command office - 4 DUII arrests
* McMinnville Area Command office - 3 DUII arrests
* Florence work site - 3 DUII arrests
In related new, OSP reported three separate fatalities over the holiday weekend. OSP noted that two of the victims weren't wearing any safety restraints.

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Tebow: When is this toolshed going to start losing?

He's still not that good.

Posted By on Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 6:45 AM

Tim Tebow (and baby Jesus and the rest of the Denver team) outlasted the Chargers 16-13 in OT on Sunday. Goddammit. Unfortunately, next weekend the Broncos (6-5) are at Minnesota (2-9)—not really the team that's going to stop Denver. Maybe if we Tebow really hard, the Vikes can pull it out...


I'm having a harder time being as diplomatic as our wise arts and culture editor, M. Bookey. Tim Tebow? I just don't like the guy.





photo: deep seabowing,

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

Players Gets an Overhaul: New owners bring in Jerry Joseph with more big names to come

The roadhouse bar on Century Dr. is still divey, but in a good way.

Posted By on Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 8:00 AM


Players Bar and Grill has new owners and they’ve spruced up the place while keeping the general dive-bar appeal. Josh Maquet, owner of the Astro Lounge, is one of the new owners, so we have good reason to expect some righteous shit from the place. Aside from food, pool and cheap, stiff drinks the new Players is kicking things off with an appearance by Jerry Joseph and Friends on Dec. 1 at 9pm ($10).

 If you’re not familiar with Jerry Joseph, check out the video below of him and Widespread Panic. He wrote the song “Climb to Safety” (one of many he wrote for Panic).

You need to use a flashplayer enabled browser in order to view this video

The revamped venue also promises to have high quality production sounds and lighting, which should help in the big-name musician recruitment process. Anyone been there yet?

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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Our Own Scoop Lewis is on Facebook!

Our ace reporter got on Facebook.

Posted By on Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:59 PM

Scoop Lewis
  • Scoop Lewis

Readers of our paper know longtime contributor Scoop Lewis, who returned to the paper this year to take over the Upfront page.

What you might not know about Scoop is that he's presently living in our garage (actually, he splits time between the garage and the basement, which he refers to as his "vacation home) and that he has a recent fascination with technology.

Presently the last reporter in the world still using a typewriter, Scoop decided this week that he wants to be on Facebook. So here's a link to his fan page and if you follow him, you'll get all sorts of hilarious and informative updates from Bend's most talented news personality.

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Kitzhaber to Death Penalty: 'Not on My Watch'

Posted By on Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 11:04 PM

This just in, Gov. John Kitzhaber has halted the planned execution of convicted murdered Gary Haugen.

The Oregonian is reporting that Kitzhaber called a press conference today to announce that he is excercising his authority to stay Haugen’s execution because of Kitzhaber’s own personal opposition to the death penalty and his belief that Oregon’s death penalty process is an “expensive and unworkable system that fails to meet basic standards of justice."

Kitzhaber acknowledged that he allowed two prior executions to take place under his first term as governor, but said that he has regretted them ever since, according to the paper’s account of the press conference.

Haugen who was twice convicted of murder and sentenced to death for killing another inmate had waived all of rights to appeal against the advice of his attorneys, clearing the way for his execution.



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Mt. Bachelor Opening Delayed

Mt. Bachelor announces it will wait until Thanksgiving to open.

Posted By on Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 5:45 PM

If you live in Bend and haven't been outside lately, let me fill you in on something: it is incredibly, insanely, mind-blowingly windy out there.

And that same wind has caused Mt. Bachelor to announce this morning that they will not be opening for the season tomorrow, as previously planned. The winds are even higher up there on the mountain than here in town and are forecast to continue tomorrow. With that in mind, Mt. Bachelor is planning on opening on Thursday, Thanksgiving Day, when the weather is looking far less threatening.

According to communications manager Andy Goggins, winds are expected to top out at 85mph at the top of Pine Marten tomorrow. Yikes. He's calling this "one of the worst wind storms we've seen in recent history."

Considering you'd be getting your face blown in if you were up there, it's probably a good thing the mountain decided to wait. And on the plus side, Mt. B got hammered with another foot of snow over the last 24 hours, pushing the base up to 37 inches.

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Monday, November 21, 2011

The Baja 1000 is Awesome: Short video and pictures from the 2011 off-road race

It's hard to imagine a race like this existing in the U.S. of A.

Posted By on Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:17 PM

Standing near a washed-out corner somewhere near mile 600 of the 692-mile desert off-road  race, we were treated to a number of enthusiastic racers roosting through the sand en route to the finish line back in Ensenada.

Approximately 200 miles south of the border in the rugged Baja Peninsula, we were celebrating the upcoming marriage of a good buddy. On Saturday we took a break from our bachelor surf expedition to enjoy the scenes below.

You need to use a flashplayer enabled browser in order to view this video

After a couple days of surfing, we were plenty happy to drink some beers, play bocce ball and wait for the next racer to come blasting by. While there are plenty of popular viewing spots (mostly closer to town centers) packed with rabid race fans, we were in the middle of nowhere and these guys were stoked to see us. Our efforts were rewarded with lots of fist-pumps, waves, honks and special flashing lights.


This guy was so psyched to see us, he missed the corner and had to double back.

The overall winner (won by a trophy truck) finished this year's race in 14 hours and 51 minutes. That means averaging about 47 miles per hour over what folks were calling the roughest course in recent memory. And from what we observed of the track, that's damn fast. For the second time in three years, the overall title was sealed by Team BFGoodrich member Andy McMillin and his father Scott McMillin, who swapped off driving duties.

Though the trophy truck class is cool, the motorcycle class is where it's at. Those dudes are crazy. And tough.


Also entertaining was the VW class.



The picture below is the front page of a local paper the day after the race. That's a man on a bike under the truck. He walked away from the incident.


Good timing on the photo, though I bet the victim would have preferred a "heads up" alert.

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Sasquatch! Ticket Sale Announced

Posted By on Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 7:18 PM

 The Northwest's premiere multi-day music festival, Sasquatch!, has announced that it will release a limited amount of  four-day festival passes this Friday. The 11th annual Sasquatch! music festival will take place Memorial Day weekend, May 25- 28. In the past, tickets for the popular event have sold out early and are expected to do so again this year for the popular festival that takes place along the Columbia River Gorge outside Quincy, Wash. Four-day festival passes will be available for purchase starting Friday, November 25 at 10:00 am (PSA) through the Sasquatch website. Though the line-up for Sasquatch! won’t be announce until sometime in February, you’re sure to see some of the top headlining artists and new up and comers. With the past lineups that include bands like The Black Keys, Arcade Fire, Foo Fighters, Mumford & Sons, and Coldplay, we expect this year’s roster to keep up with the Sasquatch! reputation and keep the local and national crowds coming back.

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Bulletin Reorganization Plan Seeks Interest Rate Reduction

Posted By on Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 12:54 AM

The Bulletin is asking its largest creditor to accept an interest rate that is less than half of what it is entitled to under a reorganization plan that the newspaper filed with a federal bankruptcy court this week.

According to the paper’s 30-plus page reorganization plan, Western Communications would pay off its $18 million loan to Bank of America over 30 years at a rate of 4.5 percent, which is about half of what the bank was getting under a negotiated penalty rate with the newspaper. The 2005 loan that allowed the Bulletin’s parent company to consolidate and refinance its then existing debt is at the heart of Western Communication’s August bankruptcy filing. The move made national waves because of the pointed criticism of Bank of America that was offered by the paper’s Editor In Chief John Costa and Publisher Gordon Black. Both Costa and Black blasted the bank for refusing to work with the paper as it weathered the ongoing economic storm, the effects of which were felt particularly acutely in Central Oregon.

The newspaper has claimed that its revenues had fallen 25 percent since the peak of the building boom in 2007, a boom which, incidentally, was championed by the paper even as the economic storm gathered on the horizon.

The company’s income statement, which was filed with the court this past week, doesn’t stretch back that far. However, it shows that the WesCom’s total revenue dropped from $31.6 million in 2008 to $27.6 million in 2010. The paper is reporting revenue of $18.5 million for the first nine months of this year, putting it on track for an even weaker year in 2011.

The numbers also show marked decrease in the paper’s profitability over the past nine months for which WesCom reports a net operating income (revenue minus operating expenses) of $280,000. By way of contrast, the paper reported a profit of close to $3 million before its loans and depreciation were figured in for 2009.

According to The Bulletin’s own accounting of its situation, the paper’s financial difficulties were exacerbated when it failed to meet financial performance clauses built into its B of A loan. The bank responded by doubling the company’s interest rate from six percent to 12 percent. That rate was negotiated down to 10 percent, however, according to the newspaper, the bank was unwilling to further renegotiate the loan, a move with which WesCom executives took exception.

Neither Black nor WesCom’s lawyer, Albert Kennedy of Portland-based Tonken Torp, returned phone calls this week seeking comment.

Under the federal bankruptcy rules, B of A and other creditor have an opportunity to vote on the Bulletin’s proposed plan. They also have an opportunity to put forth their own plan. If the parties cannot come to an agreement a judge will likely decide the terms of the paper’s restructuring.

A Bank of America spokesperson said this week that the lender was not willing to comment on the plan as filed.

In the meantime, The Bulletin appears to be betting that its creditors share its optimistic view about the future of daily newspapers and the region’s ability to rebound.

“Debtor’s markets have a natural beauty and rich history that will continue to attract investment and population in the year’s ahead. Debtor will be ready when they recover,” the company writes in its Nov. 15 disclosure statement.  

It goes on: “With exclusive ownership of the most credible and extensive base of local news, Debtor will continue to dominate these markets, and practice what is best for journalism.”

Break out the champagne.


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Mt. Bachelor to Open on Wednesday

Mt. Bachelor announces that it will open in time for Thanksgiving.

Posted By on Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 12:50 AM

As we mentioned yesterday, Mt. Bachelor ski resort has been keeping a close eye on the weather to see if they can open -- as they typically do -- in time of the Thanksgiving weekend.

And we just got word that they'd be doing just that with today's announcement that the mountain will be opening on Wednesday, November 23, which I like to call Thanksgiving Eve.

The storm system that dropped a couple inches of snow down here in town last night has been absolutely walloping Mt. Bachelor, dropping more than 17 inches in the past 24 hours (as of this posting.) The resort is listing its base depth at 31 inches, which will make for some slim conditions, but hey, it's good enough to kick off the season.

The snow is expected to continue throughout the weekend with the possibility of more into next week.

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