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Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Getting Neat with Nature in Zion

Tara, our climbing correspondent, checks in from Zion, UT.

Posted By on Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:22 PM

Attempting to catalog the events of 2012 thus far proves to be somewhat of a challenge...I'm reminded that my occasional memory loss (of the sort commonly reserved for those who receive senior discounts at Wal-Mart) Is my passport to a state of ignorant bliss...Thanks genetics! - Best year yet I think?
Several minutes later, after reviewing the teetering stack of tick tacs equating my value as a human according to the 8a.nu, I'm fairly certain my mind was left somewhere in the Mojave desert. It's possible - I left my heart there two years ago and have failed to retrieve it since.

Enter - Trad Climbing

Last summer, I procured a tendon injury that ultimately resulted in an unforgettable off-season powdered with substance abuse and questionable life decisions. Since then, even the slightest ache or pain will send me hunting for free range grapefruits and top shelf vodka with a side of ice baths - remove - repeat - remove - repeat.

It all makes sense now...

This all led to a relatively rash decision as of late that resulted in my learning to trad climb when hard crimping wasn't an option (thanks Greg!). Within two weeks, I managed to send my first three trad lines - Moondance 5.9, Wartley's Revenge 5.11a, and Sunshine Dihedral 5.12a. When granted 5 days off work, clearly a trip to Zion was the obvious choice for this sport climber who doesn't own - let alone know how to use - a daisy chain.

 

 

So, all said and done after a fucking amazing trip, here's what I learned about medium walling in Zion:  The infamous hand jam - Yellow Black Diamond - WIN! Purple Black Diamond - FAIL! 5.11 off-width is harder than 5.13 face climbing. Slab Dyno - It is exactly what it says. It can take aid climbers several days to climb 10 pitches.
If a top out lacks anchors, simply tie in to a bakers dozen root systems and don't fall.



Racking - Drinking and Driving - Unauthorized showers at public reservoirs. 


I feel incredibly lucky to have been dragged up some of the most famous cracks in the United States - Moonlight Buttress 5.12d, Monkey Finger 5.12b and Shuns 5.11+. After Greg sent Moonlight (rad), we spent the next day sport climbing and sending at Cathedral (awesome) followed by a long drive back to Oregon in search for better beer. Zion…I might be back. Cathedral - I'll be back for sure. Maybe someday I'll even climb a big wall...



One of the many amazing photos by Greg


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Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Saving Grace opens new center

Women and children experiencing domestic or sexual assault related violence will soon have a new place to get help.

Posted By on Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 9:32 PM

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Monday, April 2, 2012

Oregon Capitol News goes bust

Another casualty of the troubled journalism industry announced defeat today

Posted By on Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 5:45 PM

Another casualty of the troubled journalism industry announced defeat today. Oregon Capitol News, an online news site devoted to political and investigative reporting in Salem, said today that it will shut down immediately, according to a news release.

 “We just ultimately decided that the business model was infeasible,” said John Charles, President and CEO of the organization that sponsors the website, by phone earlier today.

Oregon Capital News began in late 2009 under the name Oregon Politico as an independent and unbiased news offshoot of Cascade Policy Institute, an Oregon-based libertarian think tank. Along with reporting, the venture also developed a large database of government documents called GovDocs for the public. Both projects were funded by outside donors who hoped to pull back support as the website became self-sufficient, said Charles.

The name of the website was changed in mid-2010 after a legal challenge by Politico.com.

After campaigns to earn grants and cash from other funding sources were fruitless, it became clear last fall that Cascade Policy Institute would soon have to take on the financial responsibility for the project, jeopardizing the credibility of the news outlet and siphoning funds from the think tank’s primary mission, according to the news release.

“We decided, don’t wait for the wolf to be at the door,” said Charles, “take command of the situation.”

The site may be reincarnated if an outside funder can be found to take it over, but all three primary employees of the site are moving on, said Charles, making it difficult to reinvigorate the project quickly.

GovDocs will remain a viable resource, however, and will be periodically updated by Cascade Policy Institute, he said.

“I am proud of what we did and it was with some sadness that I sent that email this morning,” said Charles.

 


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