Eat large with small plates at 28.Anyone who grew up with a big brother, particularly one that is
handsome and talented, knows how it feels when said sibling invades the
little niche that you have diligently and meticulously carved out for
yourself, that tiny corner of the world where you shine the brightest.
With one step into your sacred space, he steals your thunder, along
with all the attention and probably a few of your friends. Being just
such a little sister myself, I immediately thought of 28, a fixture on
Bond for the past three years and the second child of owners Steve and
Cheri Helt, when big bro Zydeco opened last month in its new downtown
location right across the street.
As a diner, of course I’m thrilled
to have the whole brood in town. A recent visit to the new Zydeco
showed that, though the decor is slightly more sterile than it was at
the old location, the service remains impeccable and the menu is
largely unchanged. Every bite was as impressive as always. But while
lavishing my attention on the new kid on the block, I felt a little
like a traitor to my kind and increasingly compelled to throw 28 some
much deserved love-for little sisters everywhere.

