Puffy coats and wool beanies at belay stations. Handwarmers tucked into chalkbags. Thin socks in shoes a half size larger than normal. Sun on south facing rock. Thermoses filled with hot tea. Classic lines with no crowds, and temperatures perfect for sending. Welcome to central Oregon winter rock climbing.
While many locals have been busy deriding the weather for a lack of snow, a few have taken to celebrating the recent high pressure for its resulting extension of the fall climbing season at Smith Rock and local bouldering areas.
Climbers prepared to suffer the relatively small and short-lived discomforts of frosty mornings and early darkness are reaping huge rewards in the form of 50 degree air temperatures, sun-warmed rocks, a noticeable lack of greasy hold and walk-on access to routes that in the summer have parties stacked up for hours waiting a turn.
“Most folks think summer is climbing season at Smith Rock, but that is definitely not the case,” said Chris Wright, a certified American Mountain Guide Association Rock and Alpine guide for Timberline Mountain Guides. “If the sun is shining it's almost never too cold to climb.”
Outside Features
TV Abs: People are still doing workout videos and I am proof of that
I just finished working out. It is three minutes past midnight and I'm in my basement.
I've been trying desperately to write something about how comic book-loving Robert Griffin III's Heisman win over the smiley face of Andrew Luck has a lot to do with the Occupy movement and the first three films of the Twilight
franchise, but have since realized that this is a horrible idea for a column. So I decided to get some exercise and planned on doing so without leaving my basement office.
While I'm reticent to discuss it at length with people who aren't already aware of my obsessive nature, I have been engaged for the past several months in a tumultuously unpredictable relationship with a certain exercise video series. The phrase “exercise video” might conjure images of Richard Simmons' (who I mistakenly have called Russell Simmons on no less than 50 occasions, an error with which the real Russell Simmons would hardly be pleased) piercing voice instructing you to perspire to the sounds of Buddy Holly, but the regimen that came into my life is nothing like that. In fact, it's not so much a work out video as it is a test of the human condition and/or vomit reflex and a routine that landed me in urgent care with unrelenting back pain. Yet, I continue to do it.
A Gran Affair: Cyclocross preview, broken bindings and a backcountry checklist
Doug LaPlaca and his cohorts at Visit Bend have done an excellent job establishing Bend as a premier cyclocross destination. Events ranging from the local to national level have invaded our town giving riders yet another reason to keep their bikes tuned all year long.
With the lack of snow keeping skis in garages, now's the perfect time to check out a couple of cyclocross events.
First up is a fundraiser for junior cyclocross racers hoping to compete at the U.S. Cyclocross National Championships in Madison, WI this coming January. Former pro cyclist and coach Bart Bowen of Powered by Bowen, is hosting a “CXmas Party” Thursday, December 8 at 6:30 p.m. at Powered by Bowen on Century Drive.
Local retailers and cycling teams have provided CXmas gifts for cyclists that will be on display. All proceeds from their sale and the $5 suggested minimum donation will go to the CX Junior Fund.
BCS Lovers!: Why do these people enjoy ruining college football?
Somewhere on Sunday, likely in a dimly lit cavernous room inside a decrepit castle atop a craggy mountaintop surrounded at all times by a lightning storm, sat the group of men, likely smoking cigars and likely wearing the finest of suits, who make up the collective brain of the Bowl Championship Series. The committee had just unveiled to the world that LSU and Alabama would be playing for the national championship and had also just laid out the slate of other BCS games.
“Excellent job, men,” said one of the mysterious BCS men through a mouth full of caviar, which he quickly washed down with champagne that had been filtered through the horn of a unicorn.
High-Pressure Blues: No new snow is a chance to scout new terrain and identify future risks
It's not snowing and, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's (NOAA) weather forecasts, it's not going to snow with substance anytime soon.
I know it's just barely December, but I'm about one weak storm system away from stripping down and throwing a half-gallon of gasoline and a match on the pile of old straight skis and broken snowboards that has been building up in the garage for the last few seasons. All I want is one big storm. Then another. And another. Piled up on the horizon, loaded and heavy with precipitation for months to come. Nothing like a sacrificial fire and ceremonial booty-shaking dance to get that fickle bitch La Nina and all her snow-god pals on board.
Clean Lines: Alpine great Andrew McLean drops into Bend
Andrew McLean is not your run-of-the-mill shredder. McLean is a fit, 49-year-old ski mountaineer who values the up almost as much as the down.
In 2006, Powder Magazine named McLean to its “48 Greatest Skiers of Our Time” list. The former Washington resident now calls Utah home but McLean spends a hearty chunk of his time in far-flung locales that always have two things in common: elevation and snow.
McLean, who has notched first descents on all seven continents, has recently returned from a three-week expedition to Antarctica. While there, McLean was treated to steep lines, some sunshine and plenty of interaction with the locals – namely the penguins and seals. One of the crowning achievements of the trip was a descent of the near 50-degree slope of Mt. Victoria, which was accomplished on a beautiful bluebird day.
It’s Back: The NBA lockout is over and that’s good…and bad
I'll admit it. I've been borderline apocalyptical in my predictions about the 2011-2012 NBA season in that I have told many, many people that there probably won't be an NBA season this winter. I also wildly declared that professional basketball as we know it would cease to exist as a result of the lockout.
OK, I look a little bit like Harold Camping right now. If you don't remember who Harold Camping is, he's that old asshole who told a bunch of other old assholes to give him all their money because the world was going to end earlier this year. I, too, am kind of an a-hole, I suppose, because there will indeed be an NBA season this winter and it doesn't look like the demise of professional American basketball is coming to an end anytime soon.
I still don't know which side won this dispute or if it even matters, but I'm now faced with preparing my psyche for an NBA season slated to begin on Christmas Day. That's right, as if owners and players weren't displaying enough hubris in their “negotiations,” they went ahead and superseded the birthday of Jesus Christ for their big tipoff day.
Let It Snow: Reveling in the early winter wonder at Wanoga
On the heels of an early season snowfall, I faced a common Central Oregon skier decision: Should I tour out of Dutchman Flats where neighboring Mt. Bachelor boasts 20-plus inches in the last two days, or risk a lower elevation ski at Wanoga Sno-Park.
I hope to face this decision dozens of times this winter. The issues at hand include: an extra 20 miles of round trip driving on the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway, snow quality, and most importantly, dog or no dog. A distaste for driving combined with a glare from my high-energy dog usually tips the debate scale toward Wanoga.
Arriving early enough to beat the sledders afforded me the opportunity to stretch out my three-pin setup with some turns on the sledding hill. My mini-tele adventure ends at the snow play warming shelter where I attended a handful of birthday parties last year with my 7-year-old daughter.
Wide Wrong: In defense of the American-style football kicker
The kick was wide left. It was one of those kicks that was doomed from the second it left the ground and it also happened to be one of those kicks that ends a team's hopes for a national championship.
But before Oregon kicker Alejandro Maldonado even took the field to try to send his team into overtime on Saturday night, the Duck gear-clad woman on the bar stool next to me said, “Our kicker is awful.” Then she said it again, and then one more time as Oregon marched down the field. It turns out this was foreshadowing the final seconds of the game when it all came down to the kicker, as it so often does.
And this isn't fair. Not in the slightest, because a kicker isn't really part of the team. Yeah, they're on the roster and they get a uniform (usually taking whatever number happens to be left over) and a helmet with inadequate facial protection, but if you were to grab a defensive end at random and ask if he knew his kicker's name, there's a good chance he'd just mumble something vaguely eastern European and walk away. Hell, kickers don't even participate in the team practice. While the squad is perfecting its offense, the kicker is typically at the other end of the field, perhaps with the punter if he's lucky, just kicking the damn ball around. They just don't fit in and even announcers don't give a damn about them most of the time, failing to even narrate the goings on of extra points – which are an expected certainty yet are actually incredibly difficult to execute.
The Week That Was: And how sports became part of the real world
There's one tenet of sports fandom I hold most dear and it's also the reason I spend so much of my time talking about this subject: these games have almost zero effect on real life.
Yes, you're going to enter a mild depression when your football team of choice fumbles on the goal line or when that last-second three pointer rims out, but unless you're moronically betting large sums of money on these games, none of this affects you, the fan. And that, I've always thought, is also one of the greatest things about allowing oneself to love a sports team: none of it is real. It's just part of the sports world. Not the real world, and that's why it's always so easy for me to nonsensically vomit out jokes about sports in this column – none of it is real, so of course it's funny.

