I feel like I’m always sleeping on Monkless. From the panoramic view to the consistently fantastic beer and the deep bench of flavors on a food menu filled with dishes that are rare to find in Bend, Monkless has always followed its own muse, still innovating at a time when a lot of breweries are content with maintaining the status quo. In fact, with Monkless launching several new menu items in the next week, they’re continuing to take interesting chances while quietly and confidently producing some of the most expertly crafted and curated beers in Oregon.
First of all, that view. Just the best. It makes you remember how beautiful the Old Mill District is when looking down on it from a beautiful brasserie nestled on the edge of a hill looking across the majestic-ass Deschutes. Monkless is such a beautiful space that even if their food and beer weren’t great, people would still flock to it. But instead, owners Robin and Todd Clement genuinely care about every aspect of what they do, from the kind and attentive staff, to the perfectly plated and prepared dishes to the deep bench of amazing Belgian ales.
“Monkless Belgian Ales began as a passion to bring authentic Belgian-style ales to the craft beer lovers of Central Oregon,” says Robin Clement. “Founded in 2014 by my husband, Todd Clement, an organic chemist with a dedication to quality and flavor complexity, Monkless is rooted in both traditional brewing techniques and a relentless drive for excellence. What makes Monkless truly unique is that from the start, we dedicated ourselves to Belgian styles, and we’ve been fortunate enough to stay true to those roots, continuing to brew the beers that first sparked our love.”
Monkless opened its brasserie in the fall of 2019. This year brought a new addition, The Abbey taproom at the corner of 9th and Wilson in Bend.
“It’s been a journey, but every step has brought us closer to sharing our passion for Belgian ales with this community,” Clement told the Source Weekly.
Because I’m a dedicated and lovable food writer, I tried eight beers and many plates of food for your reading pleasure. One thing that the Monkless brasserie was doing that I immediately fell in love with was pairing a flight of their beers with a flight of Halloween candy. The Shepplekofeggan is an amazing Belgian wit with a citrusy zest that paired wonderfully with a chocolatey Twix, blending into a really fun and delicious flavor profile. Next was the Restitution, a Belgian golden ale with malty notes that paired perfectly with the nougaty goodness of a Milky Way. Unorthodox had a dark, malty orange profile, and paired with a Starburst made for an actual explosion of flavor. My personal favorite was the toffee spice of the FNG Belgian Abbey Ale paired with a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. The peanut butter mixed with the pepper-spiced toffee is legit divine.
“We love seeing more folks get exposed to Belgian-style beers! Central Oregonians love exploring bold flavors, and Belgian-style beers offer a complexity and smoothness that aren’t always present with your typical hoppy brews,” says Clement. “They’re packed with character, from fruity notes to rich spice, and there’s a Belgian beer for every season and mood — whether you’re hiking in the summer with a refreshing pils or saison or warming up by the fire with a deep, malty quad in the winter.”
Balancing out the candy/beer combination I started with the sausage board, which was packed with some of the best meats I’ve had in a long time. Their linguica (my personal favorite meat) was perfectly balanced, light on the pork and onion and instead really allowing the smokey savoriness to be the signature.
Next came the Poutine, with crunchy, perfectly done fries, braised beef & pork gravy, cheddar cheese curds, topped with a fried egg and chives. The curds somehow managed not to overpower the gravy, instead creating a complex and delicious flavor profile that made the poutine feel delectable and sinful without sitting like a gut bomb. The heartiness felt warming instead of too ostentatious, making it easily the best poutine plate I’ve had in Oregon. I balanced this out with a 4oz piece of grilled salmon, which managed to not only be texturally without flaw, but had a playful balance between citrus and sweet that I found intoxicating.
Finally, I went for the Pork Schnitzel Sando, a thinly pounded, crisply breaded MASSIVE pork cutlet with apple cabbage slaw, honey mustard and garlic aioli. The lightly peppered cutlet was so tender and delicious that, paired with the richly complex honey mustard and subtle apple slaw, it made for my favorite dish of the night. Other than the linguica. And the salmon. And the poutine.
“The inspiration for our menu was to blend the rich, comforting essence of Belgian and European flavors with the vibrant, seasonal ingredients of the Pacific Northwest, creating dishes that feel both familiar and refreshingly new. Belgian cuisine is undeniably comfort food — it’s warm, hearty, and satisfying.”
Monkless launches its new fall and winter menu on Nov. 7, featuring some new Belgian-inspired dishes that bring even more depth to the menu, including a Flemish Beef Dip, Dutch Meatballs and Vegan Ratatouille. Classics from the old menu will remain.
Food done, I dove into another flight, starting with the crisp, dry and refreshing Reverie Pilsner, then into the clean and fresh wheat-forward Peppercorn Imperial Wit, followed by the devilish Pour Pour Pitiful Me dessert beer aged in cherries and a decadent chocolate finish and ending with the Friar’s Festivus, a quad style winter seasonal that combines a spicy clove front with a dark fruity finish that I absolutely fell in love with. Of the eight beers I tried, the FNG might have been my favorite, but it could have been the Reese’s that pushed me over the edge. Still, there wasn’t a single one I wouldn’t try again and again.
Don’t be like me and take Monkless for granted. From the lovely service to the complex beer to the warm ambience and the fearless food, the Brasserie sure feels like the place to be.
This article appears in Source Weekly October 31, 2024.
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