Whether you choose the Italian, the Reuben, the Corned Beef or any of the other Stacks sandos, be ready to pick it up with both hands. Credit: Donna Britt

Familiar but fresh. Big flavors without the fuss. A New York City style deli through a PNW lens. That’s how I would sum up the new Stacks Dinner and Delicatessen in the Old Mill District.
  The nostalgic, yet polished Stacks comes from longtime local restauranteurs Steve and Cheri Helt, the duo behind Zydeco Kitchen and Cocktails in downtown Bend. They know how to create atmosphere and build a space where people want to linger. At Stacks, they lean into classic deli traditions while showcasing farm fresh Northwest ingredients, in-house, cured and smoked meats and fish and a menu that invites repeat visits.

You’ll find the new Stacks Dinner and Delicatessen in the heart of the Old Mill District near the pedestrian bridge Credit: Donna Britt


   The evening my family dined at Stacks, the initial opening week buzz had calmed just enough. No line out the door this time, which meant we could take in the airy space and snag a table toward the back, where floor length windows frame a glowing sunset over the mountains. You order at the counter, grab a number and before you know it, the food starts arriving. I was genuinely astonished by how quickly everything came out.
   Our table went big of course. We ordered the Corned Beef with brown mustard on rye, the Reuben with pastrami, Swiss, thousand island and sauerkraut on rye, and the Italian sandwich stacked with capicola, mortadella, salami, provolone and lettuce with a pepper and olive relish on a soft club roll. On the side, we added the Little Gems Caesar Salad and the Napa Cabbage and Scallion Salad.
   Each sandwich arrived piled high with meat, the kind of generous portion that makes you pause and adjust your grip before lifting it. Pickled onion and a bright red crunchy pepper came alongside each plate. Normally there is also a wedge of pickle, but they had sold out that evening, which honestly felt like a good sign. These are sandwiches that demand commitment and possibly a nap afterward.

Credit: Donna Britt


   Everyone at the table was happy. The breads were soft and fresh, the condiments clearly homemade and flavorful, and the meats were rich, tender and plentiful. My corned beef was excellent, though I would have loved a heavier hand with the brown mustard. Next time I will order extra on the side. The Reuben was a crowd favorite, indulgent and balanced, with that perfect ratio of meat to sauerkraut to melty cheese. The Italian sandwich delivered on salt, fat and crunch in all the right ways.
   The Little Gems Caesar deserves its own moment. It was crisp, cold and perfectly dressed. The Napa Cabbage and Scallion Salad was equally fresh and crunchy, offering a lighter, snappier counterpoint to the heft of the sandwiches.

Salads, sides and sweets are also on the menu at Stacks Deli. Credit: Donna Britt


   Stacks is not just about the food, though that would be enough. The space itself is what I would call elevated deli. A high rounded ceiling with exposed lumber beams gives the room an open, welcoming feel, while windows wrap the space in light. There is a full bar with diner stools if you want to perch with a drink, along with booths and half booth tables lining the walls and plenty of seating both inside and out on the patio.
   The attention to detail really shines in the soundproofing, which is thoughtfully placed throughout the space, sometimes hidden, sometimes masquerading as art. It makes conversation easy even with a full room, adding to a sense of coziness that can be hard to pull off in a tall ceilinged space. It is casual and relaxed and a perfect fit in the Old Mill District.
   I plan to go back soon because the menu is full of yumminess that caught my attention. Beet cured salmon lox, classic NYC style latkes with apple butter and caramelized onion crema, smoked turkey sandwich options, and a variety of platters loaded with meats, pickles and bread that seem perfect for sharing, charcuterie style. Dinner offerings include herb glazed rotisserie chicken, seared flat iron steak, and an Oregon mushroom lasagna, among others. Sides range from new potato salad and pickle plates to cucumber, onion and dill salad.

Credit: Donna Britt


   And then there is dessert, because no proper deli experience ends without something sweet. On the night we visited, the seasonal house baked pie was apple crumb, and yes, we ordered it. And yes, it was perfect. Flaky crust, tender apples, just sweet enough. There is also soft serve ice cream and soft serve sundaes, which makes my inner five-year-old very happy.
   The beverage program covers all the bases with signature cocktails and mocktails, a small but thoughtful selection of white and red wines, a couple of local beers on draft, and a cooler up front stocked with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options. Cocktails run $12 to $15, right in line with what you see around town.
   Prices overall feel fair for the quality and portion size. A bowl of rotisserie chicken soup with egg noodles or rice comes in at $10. Sandwiches begin at $17, with the towering Reuben clocking in at $24. That is not an inexpensive sandwich, but it is huge, easily shareable, and deeply satisfying. Dinner plates top out around $35 for the seared flat iron steak with schmaltz potatoes and roasted carrots.
   Bottom line, I loved the vibe. Stacks Dinner and Delicatessen feels welcoming and comfortable, a place you can drop in for lunch, linger over dinner, or just swing by for dessert. So follow the unmistakable aroma of cured meat, toasted rye and freshly baked pie and check it out when you get the chance.

Stacks Dinner and Delicatessen
Daily 11:30am–8pm
Old Mill District
545 SW Powerhouse Drive #910, Bend
stacksdinneranddelicatessen.com

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Food writer, food stylist, recipe tester, cookbook editor, podcast producer/host are a few of the creative hats Donna Britt wears. Donna loves to hike, paddle board and spend quality time with family and...

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