I‘ve never been much of a wine guy, so I couldn’t really tell you what differentiates one from the other in a town like Bend where it can sometimes feel like every street corner is either a brewery, dispensary or wine bar. For this reason, I had never been to Portello (a cornerstone of Northwest Crossing for 18 years) before, so I wasn’t familiar with what they were doing. I’m glad I finally took the time to check them out because Portello is no longer simply a neighborhood wine bar. Instead, they’ve relaunched as something entirely different and exciting.
Owned and operated by Bryan Smith and Rachel Fishman since July 2024, Portello Wine and Spirits still has an expertly curated wine selection, but are leaning much more toward being a cozy, comfortable neighborhood lounge with live music, a deep bench of cocktails and food-forward concept that opens up the space to many more exciting possibilities. The husband-and- wife team of Smith and Fishman brings a genuine warmth as owners and operators, taking great care to make sure Portello feels approachable to everyone.
After his father passed in 2024, Smith used his inheritance to buy Portello. “When we first started looking at Portello, we just sat back as customers and observed what was working and where there was opportunity,” says Fishman. “It had been in the community for 18 years and we respected that history, but also knew that it hadn’t changed in 18 years. Everything from the menu to the décor – it had always been the same. It really needed some new life breathed into it. We would talk to people in the community and we would hear consistently how people hadn’t been in a long time because it hadn’t changed and there were so many new places in town to compete with. But we could see the potential – the bones were great!”
It’s a very comfortable space with a gorgeous concrete bar, high ceilings and tons of exposed brick, with an interior design aesthetic that feels much closer to a cozy lounge than you would normally find in NWX. “Portello has always been known as a wine bar,” says Fishman. “We knew that wasn’t true to who we are – and that is always a risk to change from what people always knew. But it needed change to keep going. We wanted to create a lounge vibe, a place where there is nice moody lighting, comfy velvet furniture, and you can hear people laughing, talking, and enjoying each other’s company. We wanted a place where you can go and get a great cocktail that is approachable, order a glass of wine comfortably even if you don’t know much about wine – share tasty food with your friends, maybe catch some live music or even dance the night away at one of our monthly dance nights.”
What I found immediately refreshing about the food was not just the affordability, but the diversity of flavors across the multi-ethnic menu. My friends and I sampled a wide variety of their small plates and, across the board, everything was really quite delicious. The brie with apples bruschetta and mozzarella, tomato, basil and balsamic bruschetta leaned in to how fresh their ingredients were, with the brie melting in my mouth and the apples thinly sliced and crispy, perfect for the summer afternoon.
Next was the Thai Shrimp Cocktail over a cucumber salad with arugula, cilantro and a spicy citrus chili sauce served with crispy wanton chips. That sauce was dangerously delectable with the spice from the chili and the pounce of the citrus combining for a refreshing and full-bodied flavor. The shrimp were so fresh, tender and perfect that I had to fight my companions for the last one.
I had a similar reaction to the Moroccan Roasted Carrots served over a whipped honey feta, topped with crushed pistachios and served with a lovely crostini. I think I caught just a hint of cumin and paprika in the tender and juicy carrots, which paired perfectly with a light burst of citrus and the subtle sweetness of the honey feta. I can imagine coming in for a bowl of these and a cocktail on the regular.
Next came a Peach Champagne Burrata with prosciutto, peach champagne agrodolce, plump Marcona almonds, basil and a balsamic reduction over herbed toast that I found really complex and fantastic. The texture and sweet tartness of the agrodolce paired perfectly with the rich prosciutto and the light tang of the reduction, making me pine for another one immediately.
From the insanely fresh and divine ceviche tostada to the herbed mushroom flatbread (lightly coated in a decadent truffle oil), everything we tried wasn’t just delicious, but offered a complexity of flavor that never threatened to become pretentious. Every dish we tried was approachable and packed with the freshest ingredients possible. Head chef Nikki Munk is a flavor wizard, using her many years of experience to craft dishes that don’t conform to predictability. “The menu is driven by several elements,” says Munk. “We have a type two kitchen, so that means no fryer and no grill, so I have to be creative. I love food from around the world and being able to showcase things that I used to only make at home for family and friends really makes me happy. I am absolutely blessed with the fantastic owners of Portello giving me creative freedom. When I told them my vision of a multi-ethnic cuisine menu, they were very excited and it has allowed me to not have a box to think inside.”
Just as impressive as the food menu was the plentiful and diverse selection of cocktails. From the refreshing and deliciously stiff Mule to an N/A hazy from Athletic to a marionberry lemonade with vodka, it was hard for me to stick to any one lane. “We knew we wanted to have the same amount of available wines by the glass Portello always offered,” says Fishman. “So we have worked to bring in some new wines and keep that list interesting and changing throughout the year. As far as cocktails – the big thing was bringing in both classic and approachable cocktails that would make customers feel comfortable trying something new – without being intimidating.”
As proven by Smith and Fishman, change can be a good thing, and with the relaxing vibes, kind service and the care taken in the curation of a balanced and extensive food and drink menu, The Lounge at Portello Wine and Spirits is a most welcome reinvention.
This article appears in Source Weekly June 26, 2025.
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