Restaurant Closures Reflect Broader Trends, But Local Dining Scene Holds Strong

The local closings of restaurants such as Cracker Barrel and Shari’s might lead one to think that Bend is a microcosm of what’s been happening with restaurants across the country, especially casual dining chains. But as those of us who live here know, Bend is its own macrocosm in so many ways, typically incomparable to other small cities of its size. So while the closing of chain restaurants may be reflective of what’s happening elsewhere, the rest of the local restaurant musical chairs game is a bit of a mind spin.

Most recently and surprisingly have been the closings of Neighbor Rotisserie, Nome Italiano and the Domaine Serene Wine Lounge downtown. Both Neighbor Rotisserie and Nome were owned and operated by local entities that own other successful, still-open restaurants, while the Domaine Serene brand has been synonymous with Oregon pinot noir for decades — and their wine lounges in Lake Oswego and Portland are still going strong. One can hypothesize the how-comes and the why-nots, but James Meskill keeps it simple.

“It’s been a tough year in the restaurant business,” Meskill told the Source Weekly when Nome closed recently. Meskill is a co-owner of SixTop Restaurant Group, which owned Nome and still owns Bos Taurus, Hablo Tacos and Miyagi Ramen.

Things are tough all over, what with rising costs of ingredients, a shrinking middle class and the fact that 17% of all restaurants close within the first year of opening, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Still, the National Restaurant Association says Oregon’s nearly 12,000 restaurants contribute $1.80 to the state economy for every dollar spent in a restaurant. It’s the state’s third-largest private employer, providing 200,000 jobs. Another fascinating factoid: nine out of 10 restaurants are small businesses, not big corporate chains — and it’s those mom-and-pops that seem to be thriving in our little corner of the culinary world.

The past several years have seen the opening and flourishing of locally owned establishments such as Rancher Butcher Chef in Northwest Crossing (and their sister downtown tapas lounge, Bar RBC), BOSA Food & Drink on Galveston, Celebrity Chef Brian Malarkey’s cowboy steakhouse Hawkeye & Huckleberry Lounge, and numerous international options, including Chef Joe Kim’s Yoli (Korean), JIA Asian Street Kitchen (Asian), Yokocho Izakaya (Japanese) and Blissful Spoon’s new nighttime offering Papillon (Moroccan). Most recently, two new Indian restaurants were announced — Spiceland (downtown in the former Chomp Chomp space) and The Crown Curry (in Nome’s former space) — along with a new Vietnamese spot, Pho 88 in the Old Mill.

RBC co-owner Renee Gorham says it’s an exciting time to be in the restaurant community and she attributes that to the people.

“As we’ve become more entrenched in our community I’ve truly come to appreciate all the hard-working professionals who take pride in their work and study their craft. When hospitality is at the core of any operation, our entire community benefits from that genuine sense of welcome.” Her husband and partner Chef John Gorham adds, “As a chef, I see the evolution of a great food city based on the availability to source the best ingredients. We’re getting better products more frequently and purveyors have really started paying attention to Bend.”

Cali Schipper, general manager at the commissary kitchen Prep-A Chef’s Kitchen in Bend, notices how the local culinary scene continues to evolve, with a growing focus on artisanal products.

“From handmade pasta and sourdough to pickled vegetables, natural salt blends and specialty matcha, local offerings highlight creativity and quality,” she states. Honey infusions, small-batch sauces, gourmet granola and premium pet food further reflect Central Oregon’s commitment to support local producers. While the food truck trend has slowed, retail food products continue to thrive,” she goes on to say.

Ultimately, Bend’s restaurant scene reflects a city in transition. Though some familiar names have shuttered, a new generation of independent, innovative, and community-focused dining spots are redefining what it means to eat out in Central Oregon. Bend isn’t mirroring national trends — it’s creating its own.

This article appears in Source Weekly April 24, 2025.