Desert to Desert

If you are searching for a different Oregon experience, put on your adventure shoes, take a couple days off and drive toward the rising sun.

Plunging eastward down from the 9,738-foot summit of the Steens Mountains sits a world unique to the typical Oregon landscape. Located in the southwest corner of the Beaver State and within an eagle’s view of both the Idaho and Nevada state lines lies the dry, salt-encrusted lakebed of the Alvord Desert. Named after General Benjamin Alvord, a commander of the Department of Oregon during the Civil War, Oregon’s largest playa was at one time covered by the 100-mile-long Alvord Lake.

The shattered mud lakebed looks foreign and out of place; almost otherworldly. Upon closer views, many animals visit the playa on a daily basis, including migratory birds, mule deer and elk. As the Alvord sits on an active fault line, the geothermal nature of the area is a major draw for some, with natural hot springs scattered about. Alvord Hot Springs, located on the western edge, is a privately owned, must-soak natural spa, with camping available on site. The less visited Mickey Hot Springs on the north end of the Alvord is worth a visit — primarily because it’s the site of (wait for it) Oregon’s only geyser. The water here is too hot to soak in, however, and the warning signs posted remind visitors that the boiling temperatures here are not appropriate for human submersion.

Exploring the vast playa (7 x 12 miles) by automobile, moto or bicycle is popular and highly recommended, but visitors should take note that summer temperatures can exceed 100 degrees. There’s no potable water or cover, high winds and thunderstorms are common and quick to approach, and phone coverage is spotty at best. The area is big, wild and remote. Even though sitting in the rain shadow of the Steens range, receiving little annual rainfall, mountain runoff and springtime storms produce standing water in the Alvord, which turns the hardpan playa into a slippery mud mixture that will clog up a bike drivetrain or strand even the most capable 4×4 vehicle. As the nearest tow truck comes from Burns, the $1,500 bill for extraction should be considered fair warning.

The desert floor is pancake-flat and makes for an acceptable landing platform for small aircraft, so don’t be surprised when a Piper Cub does a low flyover. Be on the lookout for “land sailors,” who can often be seen harnessing the wind for land yacht regattas. Like the famed Bonneville in Utah, the Alvord hosts land speed record attempts as well. Reaching speeds in excess of 520 mph, Jessi Combs broke the previous Women’s Land Speed record in 2019, beating the former record set in 1976. An unfortunate mechanical issue ended both her run and her life.

A recommended lollipop roadtrip from Bend takes you through Burns, where you top off your tank and provisions, then turn south toward Frenchglen. Include the short side trip to the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, a highly regarded migratory bird area, and one of the most productive waterfowl breeding areas in the United States. Continuing south to Frenchglen, visitors can camp, fish, hike or bike on the western slopes of the Steens. The journey continues south through the Catlow Valley, home of the famous Steens Mountain Mustangs, a wild horse population whose genetics have been traced back to the 17th century.

Swinging to the East toward Fields, if you need to quench your ice cream thirst, stop by The Fields Station for a burger and milkshake. You can thank me later. Heading northbound on the primarily gravel road, reach the Alvord desert, accessing the playa via the Frog Springs campground. Take your time. Spend the night or two. As a recently minted Dark Sky Sanctuary, the night sky viewing in the Oregon Outback is incredible. On your way back, type in Crane Hot Springs on your navigation system, and treat yourself to another amazing geothermal experience. This could likely be one of the best 500-mile road trips you will ever take.

This article appears in Source Weekly June 13, 2024.