There’s something I really appreciate about people who are stoked to climb in less than optimal conditions. In theory, my favorite climbing partners are the ones throwing in a backwards fist pump or two while quickdraws slam to the beat of a violent metal soundtrack below. Regardless, whichever way you see it, climbing in bad conditions is still better than working, blogging, or learning how to navigate 8a.nu. I seem to survive by implementing my favorite new ill-weather tactic: the fetal position rest. The unique aspect of the fetal position rest is that it can be used both on the wall (preferably after punting), or mid-siesta to increase your psyche. The way of the armadillo never seemed so practical…
Saturday. The morning glory wall belonged to only 4 armadillos for a large chunk of the day.
Since August, I’d pretty much written off Churning in the Wake. Due to emotional problems, we sort of ‘broke up’ and have been talking shit about each other ever since. Jespy and Daniel recommended that, instead of blaming what was clearly communication and commitment issues, I try it again—only with slightly different beta. I surprised myself by falling in or around the dime edge four times this weekend. In a way, I’m pretty excited to make a quick tick of what has been my white whale since it tore my hand and put me out for three months. In other ways I’m way more excited to try ‘prettier’ lines that I’m more attracted to, like Last Waltz. I’ll probably keep trying Churning here and there but I don’t see myself accepting a promise ring or prom date from it anytime soon.
POP! Goes the Tendon
In other news, while taking somewhat of a ‘resting’ weekend from Scarface in order to heal a skin injury, Greg put down three hard 5.13s in one day. On Sunday the Crusher sent Taco Chips, 5.13a, Aggro Monkey, 5.13b, and Rude Boys, 5.13c. This is super amazing, however, in true Smith fashion you’re only allowed to complete one hard route a season. Any more is foul play.
| Luck Dragon, Ruby, and Casey |
This article appears in Mar 1-7, 2012.
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Uhhh what? This isn’t so relatable and understandable for people who aren’t climbing jocks…which, and I’m guessing here, are most of the readers of The Source. Sometimes I wonder who comes up with content ideas…or is it just whatever is on someone’s mind five minutes before it goes to print.
Uhh Jan. . .this is a blog…it doesn’t go to print. And, this is a blog post by an actual climber (a very good one at that), not a Source writer.