Chef's Choice: Ryan Barnett

Ryan Barnett, Fireside red

Barnett with Ariana’s GnocchiAriana’s Gnocchi and peas
Since the recent closure of Bistro Corlise, my regular dining spot, I was confused as to where to take my wife for a good dinner. Then I found Ariana and their wonderful gnocchi. Hand-made potato dumplings tossed in parmesan cheese cream sauce with fresh peas and garnished with pea shoots lightly dressed in lemon and good olive oil. Simple, yes, but perfectly executed which is actually very hard to master. With the texture of tiny pillows of love the fresh sweet peas offer a perfect little snap to sink your teeth into, and the light lemon on the pea shoots offers the perfect balance to offset the rich and creamy sauce. It’s one of those dishes where you can judge how much care a chef takes in his preparations. I haven’t had gnocchi that good since my time in Italy. With all the closures that have been happening in town lately is nice to know that we still have quality restaurants that will stand the test of time and chefs that still care that much.

This article appears in May 28 – Jun 3, 2009.