I make a point to eat a dandelion every day. The whole plant is edible, from the sunny top to the deep taproot, and all the stem, stalk and leaf in between. And there are ways to eat it that won’t contort your face with bitterness, but rather turn your frown upside down, inside out, round […]
Ari Levaux
Garden Delight: Basil Carbonara
My children have an arrangement with an area farmer. After the weekly farmers market, he supplies them with surplus produce, which they sell at a roadside stand in front of our house. They split the proceeds 50/50, with the farmer getting half, and the boys dividing the other. What’s in it for me, you ask? […]
Caprese Frittata, a la Cafe Lena
When I lived in Portland in the late 1990s, there was a breakfast spot on Hawthorne Boulevard called Cafe Lena, where I used to go for a dish called “BBG Scrambled Eggs.” BBG stands for Basil, Brie and Garlic. In today’s world of hybrid recipes and fusion cuisine, most menu readers are too jaded to […]
Where’s Caldo?
I recently visited Fall River, a sleepy fishing town on the Rhode Island border whose long-established Portuguese community has made it the capital of Portuguese seafood in North America. There, amid the wine-sauced littleneck clams, the grilled cod, scallops moรงambique and Portuguese paella, I found a bowl of kale potato soup that almost stole the show. It […]
Mac ‘n Cheese Primavera
It translates to “Spring Pasta” from Italian, so forgive me for assuming Pasta Primavera is a classic springtime Italian dish. But while Primavera sounds classy, it turns out Pasta Primavera was invented in Nova Scotia during the summer of 1975. The bottom line is we can prepare cheesy noodles with vegetables any time of year, […]
Fennel: Food of the Marathoners
Every year, the growers will bring their frizzy-headed fennel bulbs to the farmers market. And then theyโve got some explaining to do. The customers wish to buy this attractive vegetable, but they have no idea what to do with it. Maybe theyโve brought one home before, only to be stumped, and are now twice shy. […]
Potato Salad Perfection
Potato salad isn’t supposed to be a main event. Its humble job is to support other dishes as a kind of chunky mayonnaise, a creamy and tangy mortar between the important dishes. But the other day while I was enjoying some BBQ, the potato salad next to my epic piece of brisket almost stole the […]
The Pleasures of Parsley
Curly parsley is widely scorned by the culinary elite. Aspiring chefs absorb this disdain from a young age and quickly understand that getting ahead in this game requires committing instead to the flat-leafed version, also called Italian parsley. But in my parsley potato salad recipe, curly parsley does the heavy lifting. Typecast as a garnish, […]
In Praise of the Fungal Phoenix
Morels have no psychoactive properties but are definitely magical. The caps have a brainly look that might make you feel like you’re hallucinating, but these whacky, whimsical mushrooms are for real, and can cause real-life magic to happen. This is especially true if you are hunting them, but preparing morels can be an adventure, too. […]
Springtime Rhubarb Hummus
If you know any rhubarb recipes that call for less than a cup of sugar, you are a statistical anomaly. It’s understandable, given the culinary perfection made possible by the combination of rhubarb and strawberriesโwith or without pie crust. The tart, juicy stalk of the rhubarb plant creates such an indisputably glorious flavor in concert […]

