Our story ends in front of a pile of Ukrainian crepes. Some are flavored with savory herbs and cottage cheese, and others are filled with strawberries, vanilla and sweet cheese. These crepes, called nalysnyky (gnaw-lees-nike), make the perfect Mother’s Day meal. But first, some thoughts on the true meaning of Mother’s Day. We have this little […]
Ari Levaux
Posted inFood & Drink
Rebound Rations
The beauty and deliciousness of instant ramen noodles—dressed up any way you like
Instant ramen noodles have replaced cigarettes as the reserve currency of the incarcerated. They are available at most prison commissaries for about 60 cents each, providing you have money in your account. Inmates convert their dollars to ramen the way speculators pile into the latest cryptocurrency, and trade the packages of crispy noodles for clothes, […]
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The Soul Food of Ukraine
A hearty bowl of borscht during a tumultuous time in history
With the invasion happening in real time as I write this, I have no idea how the chips will have fallen by the time you read it. But one thing is clear. President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, and the nation he leads, are like a hearty bowl of borscht. Vladimir Putin, by contrast, is nothing but a […]
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The Real Moqueca
A Brazilian fish stew for the ages
The smell of fried garlic hit me as soon I opened the door. It is quite possibly the most intoxicating aroma on earth. Alas, I feared it meant Edna had not waited, and that made me sad. I was there to learn how she makes moqueca, a tomato-based seafood stew that’s ubiquitous along the Brazilian coast. The […]
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Spud Bisque
Winter is for soups. This one makes a hearty meal, made many different ways
Congee is a pan-Asian dish beloved wherever rice is grown. It goes by other names, and comes in many different flavors, but the core principle never changes. Cook the rice into a starchy cloud, flavored with the likes of ginger, chives and hoisin sauce. Eat it when comfort food is called for. Nothing against rice, […]
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Chicken Husbandry and the Perfect Scrambled Egg
If you aspire to keep hens, don’t let me discourage you. The eggs are of incomparable quality, and the byproduct is rich manure that’s like steroids for your garden.
I‘ve raised a lot of chickens. Probably hundreds. For eggs, not meat. I give them the best lives I can, including a generous retirement plan when they reach a certain age, with free room and board, yet they rarely arrive at those emerald pastures. Precious few have lived long enough to die in their sleep. […]
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Food as Medicine
This is what hospital food should look like
If you’ve ever spent time in a hospital, you’ve probably noticed the tepid platters of irony known as hospital food. In these facilities, where patients receive the best care that modern medicine can offer, the importance of food is often overlooked. Only mom can make mom’s chicken soup. But more nutrients and fewer empty calories […]
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Stay Home and Make Soup
“Lily broth” makes a delightful version of French Onion soup
French onion soup is the world’s most elegant dish. Not the kind of elegance you’d find on a white tablecloth with extra silverware, but elegant in the sense that scientists use the word. Like when a simple equation can express the relationship between matter and energy with as few ingredients as a pot of French […]
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Squash Spaghetti
When the last piece of garden bounty is winter squash, here’s a new way to prepare it
This grumpy farmer who lives in the foothills brings the most amazing produce to market. I call him Mr. Sunshine. His blustery attitude practically dares marketgoers to buy his vegetables each Saturday. But his regular customers chuckle at the vibes and focus on the produce, which is usually much more inviting than his attitude, and […]
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The Way of the BLT
A fabulous take on a favorite sandwich. Hint: It’s all in this magical toasting technique
A properly put together BLT is the Bruce Lee of sandwiches. It’s lean and light and full of fight. Just a few strips of bacon is all the meat there is on the bones of this black-belt combination of tomato, onion, mayo, bacon, bread and lettuce. By using finesse and precision instead of brute force, that […]