Leave the Gun. Take the Cannoli. โ Pete Clemenza In “The Godfather,” by Mario Puzo, is a scene where Pete Clemenza shows Michael Corleone how to make spaghetti and meatballs. Clemenza was the smoothest character in the story, after the Godfather himself, of course, and quite possibly a better cook. That scene, especially in the […]
Ari Levaux
Creamy, Leafy Summer
It’s a noun. It’s a verb. It’s a way of life.”Creamy,” said my friend Luci Brieger, when I asked how her summer was going. Creamy has many meanings at her farmโall of them good, all of them rooted in Brieger’s creamy salad dressing, aka “Creamy,” which tastes like what might happen if Caesar dressing had […]
Inserting Zucchini
If you’ve been here long enough, you know the routine. Winter gives way to spring, finally, which is followed gently by summer, which glides gently into the season of getting rid of zucchinis. During those tense few weeks, neighbors and even strangers are afraid to make eye contact, lest a zucchini gets tossed, like some […]
Lettuce, Before and After Solstice
The summer solstice is in the rear-view mirror. Even though the hottest days are before us, the longest days are past. If you haven’t planted your tomatoes or melons yet, you might not bother. The plants will grow like steroid abusers, but there isn’t time for the fruit to ripen. Or maybe you’ll get one […]
Put the Ravish in the Radish
This time of year, the radishes stand out like bright bunches of candy. Sometimes at the farmers market I ask the vendors what to do with their pretty orbs, because I am chronically at a loss for ideas. The most common guidance, by far, is to use radishes in salads and stir-fries. In other words, the […]
Thrill of the Grill
Grilled pizza does not sound like the highest use of a grill or a pizza. Wouldn’t the bottom of the crust burn into a blackened crisp long before the cheese melts? Luckily, nobody told Johanne Killeen and George Germon, two art students from Providence, Rhode Island. They met while working for Dewey Dufresne, a young […]
Boba Blockage
“Sometimes you are out of boba before you finish the actual drink. It’s the worst feeling.” โFeed Meimei, on Youtube Drinkers of bubble tea are bracing for the worst. Boba balls, the tapioca-based spheres that collect at the bottom of a cup of this wildly popular Taiwanese beverage are reportedly in short supply. Bubble tea […]
The First Garden Shoots
Gardening is a conversation with the earth. The gardener does something, and the earth responds via the outcome. If you plant a tomato seedling upside down, for example, the earth will happily swallow it, thereby ending the discussion. A new dialog starts every time the gardener sows a seed or does anything to disrupt the status […]
The Wonders of Chickens, for Easter or Any Other Time
The egg came first. Let’s just get that out of the way. For millions of years before humans domesticated the feathered lizards known today as “chickens,” countless generations of amphibia and reptiles, including dinosaurs, were laying eggs. The egg is an amazing system for nurturing young beings that’s just plain awe-inspiring when you think about […]
Celeriac Vichyssoise
It’s a farmers market cliche that celeriac is good in soup. I hear it when folks inquire as to how to use this fragrant root. But I’ve never quite known what to do with that guidance. Add celeriac to my Campbell’s tomato soup? To a batch of clam chowder? To my ramen? All I’ve ever […]

