Oh, Noi, you had me at “Swimming Rama.” My one lunch routine is that I order Noi’s Swimming Rama at least once a workweek. So simple, yet elegant. Really, just four ingredients: Spinach softened by a quick sautรฉ, coconut steamed rice, tender slabs of chicken and, oh the coup d’รฉtat, a creamy, rich peanut sauce (although if you are a spicy freak, Noi’s five-out-of-five spiciness will hardly curl your hair). I understand the rest of the menu is wonderful as well, but I have no reason to venture past the Swimming Rama. (PB)

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Phil Busse has done his tour of duty with alt-weeklies, starting in 1992 right after graduation from Middlebury College as the first environmental beat reporter for San Francisco Weekly. After a brief...

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