There's something comforting about Tradesmen Coffee and Taphouse that's hard to quantify. So many aspects of the space feel like a throwback to a simpler time, yet the actual combination of offerings is decidedly modern and aimed at Bend's tastes, which shift just as quick as its weather. The menu, the space, the location, the libations... all of it has a distinctly broad appeal but, unlike most places with its fingers in that many pies, it's done with care and a real understanding of what's missing from Central Oregon dining culture.
What I appreciate the most about Tradesmen, located above the Old Mill on Upper Terrace Drive, is that it effortlessly fits into a niche I didn't know I was missing until walking into the space. The menu for Tradesmen services its customers based on the mood of the moment. You can go in first thing in the morning and get coffee, biscuits and gravy and treat the restaurant like an elevated diner. You can go in and watch a football game, scarf some wings and sip gin and tonic. Or you can treat yourself to some authentic Southern and Hawaiian dishes and a pint of local craft beer. One size fits all.
Owner Mike Pringle explains the vibe they want you to leave with: "A good feeling," says Pringle. "It's a place where you can come alone, on a date, with friends or with family and still feel comfortable." Located in the spot that Dump City Dumplings once occupied, Tradesmen might be in an unassuming location without much visibility for people outside of the area, but I could easily see it being a destination for people to pre-game before a movie at Regal or a show at Hay Ho Amphitheater.
In the last week I've been to Tradesmen twice, tried a myriad of different dishes and haven't been disappointed by anything. From the solid gin and tonic to the great Americano (with Bellatazza coffee), each aspect of the drink menu is given the care it deserves. A lot of times when places try combining beer, liquor and coffee, some aspect usually doesn't get enough attention, but nothing I tried seemed overlooked.
First off, we have to talk about the wings. In a collaboration with Northwest Wings, the wings aren't just delicious, but incredibly well priced. We tried three different flavors: the Buffalo Teriyaki, the Mango Habanero and the dry rub Lemon Pepper. They've got the wings down to a science, with thick and fat pieces of chicken (both flats and drumsticks) that still manage to be crispy underneath the sauce. The balance of the lemony zest and punch of the pepper on the Lemon Pepper wings was fantastic, but the sweet heat of the Mango Habanero was seriously on point. Just on the strength of the wings alone, Tradesmen deserves to be a part of the Bend food scene. Luckily, they nail lots more than just that.
There aren't many places in Bend doing Loco Moco, let alone a Loco Moco that doesn't sit like an energy-sapping gut bomb, but Tradesmen found the secret. The sausage gravy was savory without heaviness, the hamburger patty was tender without greasiness and (combined with the rice and egg over easy) adds up to something really special. Along with the chicken fried steak and biscuits & gravy, Tradesmen excels at hearty breakfast food that tastes handmade and carefully sourced instead of unpacked from a Sysco truck.
Another standout was the Shrimp Po Boy. The delicately sweet and light breading on the fat pieces of shrimp was highlighted by the absolutely wonderful coleslaw. I've noticed that the Pacific Northwest take on coleslaw is to suck the Southern sweetness out of the cabbage and leave it tasting like, well, just cabbage. Tradesmen puts the tang back in the slaw and got me very excited to try the catfish on my next trip in.
With a menu that also features a gyro, full Spam breakfast, carnitas burgers and an old-fashioned Dagwood, Tradesmen has a deep bench of flavors and a wide spectrum of dishes to choose from. They're removing the pretention found in a lot of new places and just going for strong flavors, thoughtful comfort food and delicious profiles. That, combined with kind service, great coffee and plenty of booze, makes Tradesmen Coffee and Taphouse a very worthy spot in your weekly rotation.
