There’s something special about finding a new food cart that’s so good that it changes what you thought was possible coming out of such a small kitchen. Places like Cotto, Manzanita Grill, Sopa, Wonderland Chicken Co. and a few others have genuinely elevated what we picture when we imagine food truck cuisine. And Mundrelli’s Italian Kitchen at Silver Moon Brewing easily joins those ranks as well. I tried several things on the menu, and everything not only exceeded expectations but also made me already eager to head back and try everything else.
Owned by Tara Pinto and family, Mundrelli’s has different origins than the average food truck. “Having an Italian and Greek heritage, my family was deeply rooted in the food industry being chefs, restaurant owners, etc.,” Pinto says. “A few years ago, I started a small catering company specializing in charcuterie, called Wild & Free Charcuterie. Shortly after, we were given the opportunity to be a vender at Hayden Homes Amphitheater, serving not only charcuterie but sandwiches as well. After two seasons at Hayden Homes Amphitheater working out of a concession tent, we decided to build a food truck. Lucky me, my husband happens to be a phenomenal local contractor. When we first opened up, we kept the name the same as it had been, but quickly realized the truck had become something different from the catering company.”
Being localized at Silver Moon seems like a good call since every one of the beers I paired with Mundrelli’s food was a delicious surprise. I had to start with the fried ravioli because I’m a 10-year-old at heart. They were fresh with a light breading that didn’t overpower the mozzarella, ricotta, Parmesan and spinach inside. Dipping these in the house-made tomato sauce was divine — the tomatoes tasted insanely fresh. There was a lightness that can sometimes be missing from a thicker marinara, and there was no acidity causing the app to take away from the rest of the meal. At $9, these are an absolute steal. I paired these with Silver Moon’s Mango Daze Pale Ale, and the summery citrus notes of the beer combined beautifully with the hearty warmth of the tomato sauce.
Next came the Italian sausage and kale soup, which was an absolute game changer for me. It was a damp, chilly December night when I sat down to eat this, and it warmed me in exactly the ways I was looking for. The sausage was tender and perfectly prepared, the kale was peppery without tart earthiness, and the broth was light and explosive. This is Pinto’s take on the Zuppa Toscana soup from Olive Garden and, in this humble foodie’s opinion, puts it to shame.
“My father was an incredible chef, and soups were one of his specialties,” Pinto says. “He never used a measuring cup or followed a recipe; he would cook on memory and taste. My dad would say, ‘A great soup starts with a good stock and simple, fresh ingredients.’ That’s where my inspiration comes from: blending tradition with my own twist.” This paired nicely with the last of the mango pale ale.
I followed this with one of the most massive salads I’ve had the pleasure of attempting to finish: the Greek salad, which, for $13, is about $5 cheaper than it would be at most other places. Packed with mixed greens, cucumber, red onion, cherry tomatoes, Kalamata olives, feta crumbles, extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) and vinaigrette, this salad is more than a meal on its own. The vinaigrette and EVOO combo gives the wonderfully fresh ingredients such an immediate pop that the salad took me to a Mediterranean beach in the summer instead of an overcast and frigid night in Central Oregon. Paired with the Raspberry Nights Porter, the salad and beer made for a very complex burst of flavors — the tartness of the vinaigrette mixed with the heady fruit of the olives and the subtle fruit of the porter left me in heaven.
“My
father was an incredible chef, and soups were one of his specialties. He never
used a measuring cup or followed a recipe; he would cook on memory and taste.
My dad would say, ‘A great soup starts with a good stock and simple, fresh
ingredients.’”— Tara Pinto
Finally, I tried the titular sandwich of the truck: The Mundrelli. Gorgeously layered with mortadella, mozzarella, pistachio cream, arugula, EVOO and pepper on Big Ed’s focaccia, this sandwich is large enough to split with someone carrying even the heartiest of appetites. The mortadella was rich and silky, and when combined with the smooth sweetness of the pistachio cream and the floral tang of the mozzarella, made for one of the most delectable sandwiches I’ve ever had. I don’t have much experience with authentic Italian sandwiches, but I guarantee this is a high-water mark. Paired with Silver Moon and Migration Brewing’s incredibly bold, new Birds & Moons IPA, I was a very happy and very full young man.
Coming up, there are brick-and-mortar plans in Mundrelli’s future, but before that happens, make sure to visit Pinto’s spot at Silver Moon. Pinto and family are kind and fun to chat with, the food is divine, and their love of fresh ingredients is found in every single bite. I’m sure I’ll see you there.
Mundrelli’s Italian Kitchen at Silver Moon Brewing
24 NW Greenwood Ave., Bend
Tuesday-Sunday, noon-6:30pm
This article appears in The Source Weekly January 2, 2025.
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