Simply Delicious: The Farmer's Deli | The Source Weekly - Bend, Oregon

Simply Delicious: The Farmer's Deli

Eating my way through a downtown Bend gem

It's no secret for those of us who spend a lot of time working, living or existing in downtown Bend, but for those of you that don't, I'm here to put a great big spotlight on Farmer's Deli, one of the absolute best spots to get breakfast or lunch in all of downtown. You can find Farmer's Deli and Chef/owner Justin Halvorsen bumping music in his old school, bodega-style food cart on Brooks Street behind Bar Rio. Either follow the music or one of the many incredible scents luring you closer to his truck.

click to enlarge Simply Delicious: The Farmer's Deli
Jared Rasic
Justin Halvorsen serves up a taste of Oregon.

The first thing you notice when eating Halvorsen's food is the care put into it. From the plating, to the ingredients, to the varied and complex flavor profiles, there isn't a single aspect of your meal that hasn't been given expertly crafted attention.

"I started cooking in high school back in Vermont. My first cookbook was given to me by my girlfriend at the time at the age of 18; it was The French Laundry's Cookbook. It steered my attention towards the fresh, local foods that are a part of the culture in Vermont. Picture in your mind each quaint small town having its own farmers market. I grew up shopping and talking to farmers as a young chef, building relationships, talking about the weather and learning about where our food comes from," said Halvorsen. "After a couple years of working in restaurants I started volunteering with community gardens, working on organic farms, and went to school to work with youth and local food systems engagement. Many moons and travels later I found myself here in Bend when I took a position as a corporate chef for a small restaurant group. During Covid I had an opportunity to join the team with Steven Draheim and Barrio who were spearheading a food-truck-forward business model; I built their Shimshon truck located at the Yacht Club and then 22 years after I started cooking, I felt ready to open Farmer's Deli last Summer in 2023."

The food from Farmer's Deli tastes clean and healthful in a way that I didn't realize I was missing.

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I first became hooked on Farmer's Deli when I tried his Hot Honey Ham Grilled Cheese Sandwich with country smoked ham, Broadus Honey and Sakari Farms Hot Sauce with a cup of tomato basil soup. For one: it's the perfect amount of food and doesn't sit heavy like a lot of downtown lunches do, turning the second half of the workday into a battle with the inside of your eyelids. But even more importantly and I'll speak clearly so I don't mince words: Farmer's Deli has the best tomato soup I've ever had. It's not even close. I legitimately can't oversell it. I dream about it.

click to enlarge Simply Delicious: The Farmer's Deli (2)
Jared Rasic

I asked Halvorsen what makes a perfect tomato basil soup and his answer is better than anything I could say to actually describe what it is that tastes so enriching and energizing about his food in general: "I think the beauty of good food is its simplicity. A carrot planted from seed and pulled from a garden, brushed off on your jeans is the best carrot you'll ever taste. Food doesn't have to be doctored, manipulated, refined or hidden. There was a time where everything was home grown, home cooked and handmade, and I think soups, salads and sandwiches really capture that. There's the sense of nostalgia that comes along with a home-cooked meal that takes us back to simpler times."

The food from Farmer's Deli tastes clean and healthful in a way that I didn't realize I was missing. You truly can taste the individuality of his food sources in every bite, from his Everything All at Once Breakfast Bagel Sandwich (on Mimi's bagels with farm fresh eggs, Tillamook white cheddar, country ham, smoked bacon, local pork sausage and golden hash browns) to the Caprese Grilled Cheese (with thinly sliced Mozzarella, Prosciutto, fresh basil, heirloom tomatoes and reduced balsamic). Every ingredient not only stands alone as being the best possible version of that ingredient Halvorsen could source, but blends perfectly with all the other flavors he so carefully curates.

"Farmer's Deli is a concept of highlighting and showcasing locally grown food and locally made ingredients that support our local food systems here in Oregon," says Halvorsen. "We can't claim every ingredient is sourced locally for realistic reasons, but we do shop at the downtown farmers market and the Northwest Crossing farmers market each week in the summer; we support local bakeries, farms and markets like Locavore."

click to enlarge Simply Delicious: The Farmer's Deli (3)
Jared Rasic

Don't sleep on his specials, either. I can't recommend his 3 Chz Gluten Free Mac 'N Chz enough, with aged parmesan, Tillamook white cheddar, Monterey jack, grilled organic chicken, pesto, smoked bacon, fresh basil and jalapenos. The blend of those three cheeses with the campfire smokiness of the bacon and complexity of the nutty and peppery pesto make this a mac and cheese for everyone. And don't even get me started on his Philly or his brisket po boy.

Writing about food is a double-edged sword sometimes, because I want to bring Central Oregon to where the good food is located and obviously bring business to the places that truly deserve it. But sometimes it feels like I'm blowing up the spot too much on a hidden gem. With Farmer's Deli it's an easy choice: everyone should be eating Chef Halvorsen's food. He's also just a good dude who's nice to talk to.

"This is a concept truck and the world we are living in continues to be hard on all businesses," concludes Halvorsen. "Restaurants all over are closing their doors and going up for sale. We are very thankful for the support from all of our customers and often wonder where we would be if we didn't start somewhere. Right now, we are here, we are open, and we are happy to have the privilege of making your breakfast or lunch because we want to be a part of your great day."

Farmer's Deli
Brooks St. Promenade
Sun-Thu 8am-3pm

Jared Rasic

Film critic and author of food, arts and culture stories for the Source Weekly since 2010.
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