Editor’s note: This is the first in a regular series about vegetarian dining options in Central Oregon from new Source correspondent Nikki Jefford. Look for more features in upcoming issues, including a look at Typhoon’s veggie menu.
I suppose vegan sushi is an oxymoron, kinda like when I spread humus and salsa between two tortillas, toast it on the skillet, and call it a quesadilla. “It’s called queso,” my husband informs me. “Meaning CHEESE!” Fine, but beanodilla just doesn’t have the same ring.
Personally, I prefer the term “vegan sushi” to “rolls” because the latter always conjures up images of doughy balls of dinner bread, not raw slices of cucumber and avocado rolled up in seaweed and rice with a sprinkle of sesame seeds and nearly translucent slivers of ginger.
Sรฉbastien and I went in search of aforementioned rolls at Kanpai where we were presented with a front and back veggie menu and a waiter named William who kept the food coming all evening. We started with Fresh Spring Rolls and peanut dipping sauce ($6) then moved onto William’s recommendation of crispy-fried Tofu Agedashi ($6). Although I’m a vegan, I rarely order anything with the word “tofu” in the title. I’m as hesitant as the next person when it comes to that white block of tasteless bean curb. However, when expertly prepared and properly seasoned: it is, in fact, sublime. These triangles of tofu were perfectly pan-seared, crispy on the outside, moist within where each piece had been slit down the center and stuffed with sautรฉed mushrooms.
Given that veggie rolls were our original intent, we looked over the 10 choices on the back of the menu. I was stumped. Usually there is one classic veggie roll, not 10 unique creations and an invitation, like a pizza joint, for diners to build their own. Once again William came to the rescue and presented us with a chef’s selection featuring four samplings (eight a piece), including an asparagus tempera topper – the first time I’d seen tempera end up in the middle of a roll. (A winning combination, if you ask me.)
Feeling that we could eat all night long, we ordered our next dish: the Szechuan Style Green Beans ($4) in a peppercorn sauce we were warned might make our mouths go numb. I thought wasabi was strong, but peppercorn… woo-eee!
This article appears in Sep 3-9, 2009.








Sorry, that was supposed to be bean “curd”; not bean “curb”.
I’m not a vegan, or even a vegetarian, but all of this is making my mouth water! Yummy! I’ll have to share your blog with some vegetarian friends of mine. Thanks!
I love this write up! I’m always looking at where to dine out – vegan style.
I also am not a lover of tofu but that sounded fantastic as did the other dishes you described! Everything sounded flavorful, delicious and exciting!
In this economy it is dinners at home. Sure wish we could enjoy Kanpai, but not gonna happen until the corporate capatalism falls and communism takes over.
1. humus is dirt. hummus is a garbanzo bean puree.
2, tempera is paint. tempura is food that is coated in a light breading and deep-fried.