I have a buffet problem. Look, I’m not saying Bend would be a better place with a Hometown Buffet or a Golden Corral, but I will say that people are much happier when all you can eat mac & cheese and mashed potatoes are an option in life. Now that I’m thinking on it, that would actually pair perfectly with the buffet we already have here in Bend: King Buffet, the Chinese food buffet on Third Street by the Wagner Mall. All you can eat Chinese and American in one town seems like something Bend needs, NAY, deserves.
Along with movie theaters, live theaters, restaurants and bars, buffets became the last place people wanted to be during COVID, so it’s impressive that King Buffet managed to survive the pandemic when so many buffets across the globe closed forever. Manager Anna Qiu brilliantly pivoted during COVID by delivering meals on DoorDash and thriving on a to-go basis. Although, it still wasn’t easy.
“We closed the restaurant for about a month and came back open when restaurants could open take-out,” says Qiu. “The first couple weeks we were very, very slow. But we stayed open until finally we had more orders coming. But still not enough to pay rent, utilities, food and employee payroll. We eventually received federal, state and county financial help, which was [a] big reason for us surviving during COVID. Also, the community also tried to help us, like with COCC [Central Oregon Community College] always sending catering orders to us. I know the kids like our food!”
I hadn’t been to King Buffet since pre-COVID, so I was really excited to try it again. It amazed me they’ve been open for 15 years, serving customers from all over Central Oregon. I remember when that spot was JJ North’s, 25+ years ago, so the buffet vibes in that space are the real deal.
One thing I noticed that’s different since pre-COVID is that there are fewer dishes in the buffet, which I think was a really smart choice. Back in the day, there were almost too many options, making certain dishes somewhat forgettable. Now, with a dialed-in focus on the strongest recipes, every dish they had in the buffet was a signature one.
“My dad is the main chef in our restaurant, says Qiu. “He has over 35 years in Chinese food cooking experience. But we always try to discover what our customers’ flavors are. We’re always making all the recipes better.”
I must say, that feels absolutely true, as everything I tried was much better than I remember from before COVID. I got there right as they opened (and so did at least five or six tables of other families), so the spread was very impressive. From the thickest and tastiest egg rolls I’ve had in town to the light and succulent veggie spring rolls to the fat and crispy sweet and sour chicken, I basically started with a giant plate of fried deliciousness. The sweet and sour sauce had a nice balance too, without being the oily mess you find in some of Bend’s other Chinese spots.
I mean, sure, I had an entire plate of veggie lo mein and I don’t regret it. I want to go back for more already. Did I also have an entire plate of sesame chicken? I don’t know, are you judging me? Everything I tried reminded me of just good old-fashioned Chinese food, prepared with care and expertise. The custard buns, the steamed meat dumplings, the flaky and fresh salmon… all of it was pure comfort food for me.
As someone not very impressed with many of the Chinese food choices in Central Oregon, King Buffet exceeded every expectation I had and is going to end up in my rotation. I’m a simple man. Give me a giant bowl of hot and sour soup and bottomless crab rangoon and I’m happy. Since the quality of those ‘goons and soups are high from King Buffet, I’m even happier.
This article appears in Source Weekly July 20, 2023.
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That hyperlink at the bottom of the article goes to the website of a restaurant in Georgia. Can you correct the link to https://kingbuffetortogo.com/?