The first bite of Roman’s Pork Belly Burnt Ends makes it clear this is not your typical barbecue joint. The exterior has the caramelized crispness that good burnt ends demand, while the inside remains surprisingly meaty with just enough rich fat to carry the smoky flavor. Instead of leaning into heavy sauces and oversized portions, Roman’s Island Barbecue takes barbecue in a different direction by blending American smoking techniques with bright Asian and Pacific Island flavors.
The new food truck, which opened in May at 900 SE Wilson Ave. outside The Abbey Taproom, is carving out a niche for diners looking to venture beyond familiar brisket, ribs and mac and cheese. Roman’s menu is built around live fire cooking, whether the food is smoked or grilled, and the result is barbecue that feels lighter and fresher than the traditional Texas style many diners know.
Owner Roman was cooking and serving customers during my visit, greeting guests with genuine enthusiasm while explaining unfamiliar ingredients and dishes. It quickly became obvious that this is more than another food truck. It is a personal project rooted in sharing flavors that mean something to him, while introducing diners to cuisines they may not have experienced before.
The menu offers plenty of opportunities to explore. There is Tri Tip with sambal, the spicy Southeast Asian chili sauce, served alongside namul, a rotating selection of seasoned vegetables. Smoked whole wings come with wasabi aioli, while grilled ahi is paired with a green garlic sauce. A smoked pork sandwich topped with shishito citrus slaw and house aioli offers a more familiar option, and a market salad changes with the seasons. Those dining together can order the $36 barbecue platter for two, making it easy to sample several specialties in one meal.
My order centered around the Pork Belly Burnt Ends with Chamorro red rice, a traditional dish from Guam and the Mariana Islands made with white rice colored and flavored with earthy annatto. While I am not usually a pork belly enthusiast, these burnt ends won me over immediately. They were smoky, flavorful and beautifully crisp around the edges without becoming dry. Many pork belly dishes rely on excessive fat for richness, but these struck a satisfying balance between meat and fat, allowing the smoky flavor to shine.
The Chamorro red rice was my first introduction to the island staple. The rice had an earthy, slightly nutty flavor that paired naturally with the pork, although I found it a bit dry on its own. Fortunately, a little creativity solved that problem. I drizzled some of the bright citrus dipping sauce from the lumpia over the rice, adding moisture and a welcome burst of acidity that tied the plate together.
The lumpia itself was another standout. Filled with pork and shrimp, the crisp spring rolls were fried to a satisfying crunch without becoming greasy. The citrus dipping sauce added just enough brightness to balance the richness of the filling, making it easy to understand why they have become one of the truck’s popular sides.
Even the coleslaw broke away from barbecue convention. Instead of the usual creamy mixture built around green cabbage, Roman uses red cabbage tossed in a light cilantro and lime dressing with shishito peppers. The result is crisp, refreshing and restrained, offering a cooling contrast to the smoky meats without overpowering them.
That balance defines much of Roman’s cooking. Rather than burying smoked meats beneath heavy sauces or sugary glazes, the dishes rely on clean flavors, fresh herbs and carefully chosen accompaniments. The barbecue remains the centerpiece, but every component feels thoughtfully composed.
Several menu items have already earned a spot on my list for a return visit. The smoked whole wings with wasabi aioli sound like an ideal pairing of smoke and spice, while the smoked pork sandwich promises another opportunity to experience Roman’s lighter approach to barbecue. Seasonal vegetables and fresh baked sesame flatbread brushed with Thai basil butter provide even more reasons to see how the menu evolves over time.
Part of the experience extends beyond the food truck itself. Roman’s sits directly outside The Abbey Taproom at Monkless Belgian Ales’ production facility, making it easy to enjoy a thoughtfully paired Belgian style beer alongside your meal. If you are unsure what to order, the bartenders inside are happy to recommend pairings that complement Roman’s flavors, adding another layer to the experience.
Bend has no shortage of barbecue, but Roman’s Island Barbecue offers something refreshingly different. It respects traditional smoking while embracing influences from Asia and the Pacific Islands, creating dishes that feel both familiar and new. More importantly, the food reflects the passion of the person preparing it. Every plate feels handcrafted, every conversation feels genuine and every dish invites diners to discover a new combination of flavors.
Roman’s Island Barbecue is worth seeking out, whether you are a barbecue devotee or simply someone looking to try something beyond the ordinary. Come with an open mind, order something you have never had before and let the smoke, citrus and spice introduce you to a different side of barbecue. Chances are you will already be planning your next visit before you finish the first one.
Don’t Miss
- Pork Belly Burnt Ends
- Pork and Shrimp Lumpia
- Shishito and Citrus Slaw
- Ask The Abbey bartenders for a Belgian beer pairing
Roman’s Island Barbecue
Wed-Sat Noon-8pm
The Abbey Taproom
900 SE Wilson Ave., Bend, OR
romansislandbbq.com
IG: romans.island
This article appears in the Source August 13, 2026.
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