Part of the buffet at Real Taste of India. Credit: Jared Rasic

When the Shilo Inn closed back in February, my first thought was for Real Taste of India. Tucked into the restaurant space attached to the hotel, the delectable Indian restaurant and buffet overlooks the pool and garden area. I’ve been here long enough to see several restaurants inhabit the space (pour one out for Fat Tuesdays). With the Shilo closed, the assumption for many was that the restaurant had vanished along with it.

Thankfully, that isn’t the case.

While their business initially slowed by nearly 90%, the outpouring from the community has been heartening to witness. Following reports from KTVZ and Central Oregon Daily, as well as a massive surge of support from Bend Reddit and Bend Foodies pages, it certainly appears at first glance that the tide is turning.

The difference is immediately noticeable. A few weeks ago, my dining partner and I were the only ones dining in RToI the entire time. From arrival to leaving, we didn’t see another customer. When we returned last Friday, the room was buzzing, most of the tables full and there was a steady stream of hungry customers headed straight to the buffet.

While the resurgence is great news, co-owner Raja Ram admits some of the damage is already done. “The hardest thing for me was losing my employees who worked for us for several years,” says Ram. With so many people coming through the doors, Ram was working solo, clearing tables and being the kind, warm and gracious host that he always is. That is the heart and soul of Real Taste of India: the customer service isn’t just a surface-level formality; they treat everyone like a beloved, long-lost family member.

With a small boom in Indian cuisine over the last few years, Bend has more to choose from than ever before. What’s wonderful about that new development is that none of the four spaces are similar in their flavor profiles or approach to some of the most traditional dishes. For instance, all four restaurants (Taj Palace, Real Taste of India, Spiceland and The Crown Curry) have completely different approaches to one of the most classic dishes: the Chicken Tikka Masala.

While each have their own special aspects, the Tikka Masala from Real Taste of India has a much thicker, more savory base with large, tender pieces of chicken throughout. They lean into the yogurt more than the tomato, giving the delicious dish a smoky, ginger-and-turmeric-forward profile that avoids the sharp acidity found in Tikka Masalas leaning more heavily on tomato.

Having been to RToI several times over the years, I appreciate the consistency of their buffet options. Their Tandoori Chicken carries a lovely heat to it that complements the perfect char and the creamy, tangy finish. The yogurt marinade is so expertly done that the chicken is always nice and crispy on the outside, while remaining juicy and aromatic on the inside. While Butter Chicken and Tikka Masala are very much in the comfort zone for many Bend eaters, I would recommend the Murgh do Pyaza (whether you get it from the menu or the buffet). This chicken curry features onions that are caramelized into a rich gravy infused with cumin, coriander and the always welcome Garam to give the thick, comforting Masala that delicious, earthy Northern Indian finish.

Or don’t just take my recommendations. I asked Raja Ram if he felt like there were any dishes that he felt like customers at RToI were sleeping on and here is his response: “I have a lot in mind, but I wanna say Goat Madras with coconut! That dish is mind-blowingly great!” As a big fan of goat myself, I know what I’m ordering next time.

From their fresh, complex Garlic Naan to their gently spiced Aloo Mutter and Aloo Karahi, to their divine Pakoras and Masalas, Real Taste of India is a vibrant community gem that we’re lucky to have. If you haven’t visited in a while, now’s the perfect time to head back and be reminded about what made them special in the first place.

Real Taste of India
Lunch Buffet: Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm
Dinner Buffet: Tue-Sun 4:30-9:30pm
3105 O.B. Riley Rd.
458-666-5372
realtasteofindiabend.com/
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Film critic and author of food, arts and culture stories for the Source Weekly since 2010.

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