Signature rolls at Bamboo Sushi include the Garden of Eden with spicy albacore, seared tuna, apple and mustard seed. Credit: Donna Britt

     Bamboo Sushi has finally arrived in Bend and judging by the crowds, Central Oregon has been waiting patiently. Originally expected to open back in December, the restaurant finally welcomed its first guests during the first week of June. Since then, word has spread quickly. On my recent early evening visit, the wait for either a table or a seat at the bar stretched to about 45 minutes. Nobody seemed particularly bothered. The dining room buzzed with conversation while more than one guest nearby mentioned this was already their second visit because it was simply “that good.”

I’ll admit I approached Bamboo Sushi with a bit of skepticism. I am not usually drawn to chain restaurants, especially when Bend has so many excellent independent options. But Bamboo Sushi is a relatively small company with locations in Portland, Washington, Denver and San Francisco, and it has built a reputation around something more meaningful than expansion.

In 2008, Bamboo Sushi became what the company says was the world’s first certified sustainable sushi restaurant. The restaurant emphasizes responsibly sourced seafood and works with organizations including the Marine Stewardship Council and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council. Even better, one percent of sales from its Green Machine Roll and Sushi Boards are donated to environmental nonprofits. Those are admirable goals that make ordering another roll feel just a little easier.

The Oregon Avenue space in downtown Bend deserves its own applause. Anyone who remembers its previous lives as neighborhood bars may hardly recognize it. The footprint remains the same, but nearly everything else has changed. Fresh paint, contemporary finishes, strategic lighting, comfortable seating and a soaring ceiling transform the room into something bright, modern and unexpectedly sophisticated. Even packed to capacity, the restaurant never felt cramped.

The menu is expansive without becoming overwhelming. Starters range from comforting bowls of miso soup and spicy edamame to cucumber sunomono, Agedashi tofu, crispy rice dishes, tempura selections, fresh oysters and oyster shooters. For guests looking beyond sushi, the “From the Kitchen” section offers dishes such as Miso Glazed Black Cod with orange, ginger, yuzu miso and gochugaru oil, along with Pan Seared Kanpachi served over a colorful heirloom tomato and roasted corn salad with charred apricot peach puree. There’s even a half pound Wagyu burger topped with Tillamook white cheddar, momiji aioli and served with furikake fries.

Traditionalists will appreciate the broad selection of nigiri and sashimi featuring everything from Coho salmon and steelhead trout to snow crab. I chose the seared Albacore Nigiri finished with duck fat and truffle salt. The fish was only lightly seared, allowing its freshness to remain front and center while the duck fat added richness without overwhelming the delicate flavor. At $13 for two pieces, it felt like a worthwhile splurge.

The Signature Rolls showcase Bamboo Sushi’s more playful side. Choices include the Bamboo Dragon, loaded with shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and seasoned crab, and The Unicorn featuring spicy crab, shrimp tempura, albacore and jalapeno dressing. The Green Machine, perhaps the restaurant’s signature creation, layers tempura fried green beans, avocado, cilantro, green onion and sweet chili aioli, with the option of adding salmon, albacore or crab.

The Garden of Eden immediately caught my attention because of two unexpected ingredients, crisp apple and pickled mustard seed. Those additions, paired with spicy albacore, cucumber, seared tuna, basil and yuzu vinaigrette, created one of the most memorable specialty rolls I have had in quite some time. Every bite balanced freshness, acidity and texture beautifully.

Guests who struggle to choose can order one of several curated experiences built for sharing. The Setto serves two to four diners with nigiri, sashimi, crispy rice, chopped salad and multiple rolls. Larger groups can step up to the Kazoku, which feeds as many as eight people with an even more generous assortment.

The beverage program deserves nearly as much attention as the food. Sake pairings are thoughtfully suggested alongside several sashimi selections, making it easy for newcomers to venture beyond familiar choices. The sake list ranges from approachable house hot sake to premium pours with tasting notes highlighting pineapple, honeydew, roasted pistachio and melon. Flights of sake and Japanese whisky encourage exploration, while cocktails such as the Kyoto Sunrise with yuzu kosho infused tequila or the floral Alpine Bloom provide creative alternatives. Beer drinkers will find Japanese imports alongside local favorites including pFriem Rice Lager and StormBreaker IPA. Those skipping alcohol have several appealing choices as well, including housemade lemonade and a refreshing peach ginger Palmer.

Dessert is worth saving room for. The butter mochi cake arrives with passionfruit guava puree, orange and whipped cream, while the Haupia Pie layers coconut custard, dark chocolate ganache, macadamia crust and roasted strawberry puree. A black sesame brownie rounds out the small but tempting dessert menu.

Prices land about where you would expect for an upscale sushi restaurant. Starters begin around $6, signature rolls hover near $20, entrees reach the upper twenties and cocktails range from $13 to $16. It is certainly not an inexpensive evening out, but the quality of the ingredients, polished atmosphere and careful presentation make the cost feel justified.

Bamboo Sushi brings something that feels distinctly urban to Bend. The room is stylish without being pretentious, the menu rewards adventurous diners while remaining approachable for newcomers, and every plate that passed our table looked as beautiful as it did appetizing. Just one piece of advice. Arrive early, because everyone else seems to have discovered it already.

Bamboo Sushi 
Tue-Fri 4-9pm, Sat Noon-9pm
125 NW Oregon Ave, Bend
bamboosushi.com
541-241-9122


$
$
$

We're stronger together! Become a Source member and help us empower the community through impactful, local news. Your support makes a difference!

Creative Commons License

Republish our articles for free, online or in print, under a Creative Commons license.

Trending

Food writer, food stylist, recipe tester, cookbook editor, podcast producer/host are a few of the creative hats Donna Britt wears. Donna loves to hike, paddle board and spend quality time with family and...

Join the Conversation

1 Comment

  1. Just curiousโ€ฆ..are the Source restaurant reviews just ads? I donโ€™t think Iโ€™ve ever seen a bad review here.

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *