Many in Bend have caught wind of what's going on at the Campfire Hotel, where a fun atmosphere, great food and drink and a host of events have brought not just tourists, but locals to the spot along Third Street in Bend. But Hood River got its dose of this alchemy first, when the same people behind the Campfire and the Jupiter Hotel in Portland bought the historic Hood River Hotel in 2017. Situated right along Oak Street in the heart of downtown, the Hood River Hotel doesn't look or feel like the Campfire, but with its classic turn-of-the-century-meets-hipster vibe, it's chock-full of offerings that make this an excellent option for a two-hour getaway from Central Oregon. (Technically, among the three itineraries shared in this feature, this one is the longest ride, at 2.5 hours from Bend.)
Checking in to the hotel gives visitors their first taste of the region. On my visit, that came in the form of fresh, pink-fleshed apples from nearby Kiyokawa Family Orchards to help stave off any peckishness the road might have brought on. It's something of an advertisement for Hood River's well-known "Fruit Loop," a self-guided rural farm tour that brings visitors to farm stands, U-pick orchards, cideries and wineries – a great excuse to support local agriculture and have a great time, too.
Upstairs in our third-floor room — more of a sweet 1911-style apartment than your average hotel suite — my two dogs, two friends and I enjoyed the expansive views of the Columbia River — "Nch'i-Wàna" in the Sahaptin language traditionally spoken by the Warm Springs and other indigenous people of the area. Visiting a pet-friendly hotel means I'm more inclined to stay more than just a night, as like a lot of Northwesterners, life is just better with a dog (or two) to adventure with.
Hood River area recreation
In warmer times, swirling dots above the river mark the spot where countless windsurfers come to test their skills in the mighty river winds – not so much though in late October. Still, it's sunny out, and Hood River is bustling with people headed to the downtown wineries and outdoor shops.
On the river close to the hotel is The Spit, a dog-friendly sandbar that gives us all a quick respite from the car. It's also a good swimming and kiteboarding spot in summer, I'm told – and a lot more chill than the Hood River Event Site, launchpad for myriad windsurfers and gawkers, located just west. (Also, parking at The Spit is free.)
Fall, in my opinion, is the ideal time, before the rains come en force, to ride mountain bikes in Post Canyon, Hood River's network of steep, climbing trails. But hoping this time for a less heart-pounding ride, we head instead to the Klickitat Trail across the river in Lyle, Washington, a flat, fairly easy rails-to-trails path that winds along the river and offers plenty of gorgeous fall foliage. From there we head to Cor Cellars, a winery with a hip, Scandi-vibes tasting room and plenty of windows to sit back and enjoy the view.
A murder mystery
There's so much to explore in this region and we've barely even begun to scratch the surface, but it's time to head back to the hotel to get dressed up for a murder mystery. Our visit took place the weekend before Halloween, when the staff at the Hood River Hotel put together a fun event and a reason to add "old Hollywood" to my Halloween-costume repertoire. The basement of the Hood River Hotel contains a large gathering room with a bar, where on this weekend, people gathered to try to solve the "Best Laid Plans" mystery — who killed the scheming director... or wait, will there be multiple victims?
"The Murder Mystery was a combined effort of myself, Baylee Olson in sales and Rachel Rand, front desk supervisor," Hood River Hotel Manager James Pearrow told the Source Weekly. "We brought the Murder Mystery Company from Portland to put on their show this year and last year. We plan to bring back them or a similar company next year!"
While the murder mystery won't be back in the Hood River Hotel for a while, plenty of other upcoming events might occasion a visit. Hood River dives right into the holiday season as soon as Thanksgiving is over.
"The first weekend of December is full of events for the holiday traveler," Pearrow told me. "On Friday December 1st, Hood River will have their annual tree lighting and parade, shops will stay open longer, and free downtown parking! We will have our Holiday Vintage Bazaar Friday and Saturday December 1st and 2nd. This will be our 2nd year hosting this and it was a big success for all the vendors and shoppers last year."The day after the Vintage Bazaar, on Dec. 3, the Hood River Hotel hosts yet another Diva Drag Brunch, featuring the same troupe who frequents the Campfire Hotel in Bend.
Morning in Hood River
Mornings, for me, are about coffee and books – and among the vintage odds and ends, my suite inside the Hood River Hotel has both in spades. I pick up a vintage copy of "The Accidental Tourist" and force myself to finish the whole thing while outside the wind whips and rain starts pouring down, comfy bed all the more enticing. Downstairs, breakfast greets me at Broder Øst, the Nordic-inspired spot that originated in east Portland and still claims a piece of my brunchy heart. Here at Broder Øst, slabs of delightful bread topped with local, seasonal mushrooms and an egg on top complement the copious amounts of coffee I need the day after a Halloween murder mystery.
Going home from vacation is not something I relish, usually – but on this vacation, the trip back isn't so bad when it involves gazing at the glory of Wy'east – Mt. Hood – alive and taking up the bulk of the windshield. Soon enough, we'll be back to our own form of hygge – more coffee, a warm fire and abundant Central Oregon sun to welcome us home.
